Welcome To The Basement Professor!

Call Us Now For A Free In-Home Inspection (888)719-4869

Serving Southeastern Pennsylvania, the Basement Professor is a leader in basement and crawlspace foundation waterproofing, mold remediation, structural repair, egress systems and basement remodeling. The Basement Professor knows that every water, mold, or structural problem presents its own unique challenges. This is why we always prepare a range of preliminary options to help establish design parameters. These help to define the solutions which are ideal for your unique situation. After discussing the alternatives with our clients a single option is selected and worked through to a conclusion.


The Basement Professor is a cost effective solution that allows you to implement change quickly and effectively. We are experts at repairing foundation cracks, mold remediation, sump pump installations, interior perimeter water control systems, and exterior water diversion management. We provide our clients with world-class insights that generate tangible and measurable impact. By using only well engineered materials and products backed by innovative designs we are able to produce the highest quality work which will last for generations with minimal maintenance.

Our clients can rest assured that their house and family will be safe from the dangers resulting from unwanted water in their home. Our friendly and always professional staff will make the restoration and waterproofing of your home a stress free experience. Understanding business, offering the proper solution and clear communication is what differentiates the Basement Professor from the competition.

The Basement Professor is a diverse and talented home improvement construction firm based in Ardmore, PA. The Basement Professor has staff with the strength of decades of experience in the field. When first established, our core strength was providing water management solutions to both the residential and commercial sector. Today, we are currently expanding our services as we continue to acquire the highest respected and talented professionals in the industry. Our unparalleled services, competitive prices, and overall value are why our loyal customers will not go anywhere else.

Our dedicated staff members are scholars of the industry who will resolve your problem by utilizing proven scientific and engineering principles. Simply put, we are the trusted dry basement experts.


Our goal is to build solutions that are integrated with quality and timeliness. Let’s explore your options together and create a solution that works for you. We value and welcome the chance to work with you.


Services

 

The Basement Professor Accepts

 

National Basement Safety and Health Association Certified Contractor

 
 

Serving All Of Southeastern, PA

 
 

We use Angie's List to assess whether we're doing a good job keeping valued customers like you happy. Please visit AngiesList.com/Review/7586834 in order to grade our quality of work and customer service.

Corporate Philanthropy


Here at Bricks & Beams, LLC, the Basement Professor, we are proud to announce our continued support for the National Breast Cancer Foundation, The Garces Family Foundation and Safe Home, The Philadelphia Committee to End Homelessness. 

Each year, Bricks & Beams makes a commitment to help make a difference in people’s lives.  Our staff is devoted to volunteering their time and talent to strengthening and enriching their communities.

Join us at the Poker Players with a Heart, Texas Hold' Em & Casino Night to Benefit Safe Home Philadelphia. Call us or visit www.PCEH.org for more information! 


Check out the Basement Professor on Yelp to get coupons and gift certificates, click here! http://www.yelp.com/biz/basement-professor-ardmore


Click on the logo or visit www.NationalBreastCancer.org to learn how you too can help.

Why is my Basement Wet?

Few, if any, basements are truly waterproof, at least not in the sense that they can remain dry while surrounded with water-saturated soil materials.  To remain dry, basements need a properly designed and constructed drainage system to intercept water moving through the soil and drain it away from the structure, preventing the water from ever reaching the basement walls or floor.  

During wet weather, the soil materials around a house can become saturated to a depth of several feet, especially in places where the soils have been disturbed and then replaced, such as in the excavation made for a basement.  Undisturbed soils generally are much less permeable than soils that have been excavated and then replaced.  During and after rainfall, some of the water flows laterally across the surface of the ground away from a house, but some of the water moves vertically downward through the soil materials.  Whether water is moving across the land surface or through the subsurface, it moves due to gravity.


Water moves from an area of high head (or elevation) potential toward an area of low head (or elevation) potential.  If the water accumulates around a basement and saturates the soil materials around and beneath it, leakage commonly results.  Water accumulating around the walls of a basement will exert a pressure of 0.43 pounds per square inch for each foot of water depth.  If it rains very hard for an extended period and the soil materials are saturated from land surface to the floor of the basement, the water pressure against the basement floor would be about 3 pounds per square inch, more than enough to cause water to leak through cracks in concrete, around the perimeter of the basement floor, and any other openings.


The expansion and contraction of the soils under and around your home will lead to cracking walls in your home.  Excessive runoff water that collects and stands around the foundation of your home will in time begin to seep into the basement and cause mold and mildew growth on the surfaces.  This is not only distasteful but a health hazard for you and your family. 

Waterproofing and drainage considerations are especially needed in cases where groundwater is likely to build up in the soil and raise the water table. A higher water table causes hydrostatic pressure to be exerted underneath basement floors and against basement walls. Hydrostatic pressure forces water in through cracks in foundation walls, through openings caused by expansion and contraction of the footing foundation wall joint and up through floor cracks. Hydrostatic pressure can cause major structural damage to foundation walls and is likely to contribute to mold, decay and other moisture related problems. Many people who do not understand how powerful the hydrostatic forces of saturated soil can be are often surprised at how much damage can occur to their basements over time if a proper water management system isn’t installed.


Here we have an image of a basement with common moisture problems. In the diagram, the wall depicted on the left is a concrete block wall made of block, brick, or stone. The wall illustrated on the right is a poured (cast-in-place) or precast concrete wall, easily identified because it is solid as opposed to hollow core 8"X 12" blocks, bonded together with mortar joints or seams.

Water Problem Symptoms

  • Water trickling out of walls
  • Standing water on floor
  • Saturated  base of concrete block walls
  • Damp, humid air
  • Condensation on cold walls and floor in summer
  • Odor, mold, and mildew
  • Deterioration  of carpet or wood 
  • Rot and decay of wood headers, joists, sill plates, and columns
  • Staining and blistering of wall covering
  • Efflorescence and spalling of concrete or masonry 

Understanding how your home was built...


How is a Foundation Constructed?


Most basements are constructed in three separate steps.  The footings that the basement walls rest upon are poured first.  The forms for the walls are set on the footings and then the walls are constructed or poured.  Finally, the basement floor is poured after the forms are removed from the walls.  Concrete shrinks slightly as it cures.  Even though the concrete floor completely filled the space between the basement walls, a small opening may appear between the basement floor and the walls, at least in places.  Since the floor is not sealed against the walls, if water under any pressure is present beneath the floor it will commonly leak upward through the joint between the walls and floor.  If there are cracks in the basement walls, a common occurrence in older homes or houses built upon swelling-clay type soils, they can also be an entry point for leakage. 

Understanding the common wet basement causes...

Hydrostatic Pressure 


The pressure exerted by a fluid at equilibrium due to the force of gravity. Over thousands of years of the earth’s evolution a unique network of veins in the ground  have developed that act like pipes to feed all natural bodies of water. We call these underground pipes “capillaries.” The capillaries traverse layers of the earth that consist of diverse mineral particles and pores. The earth’s natural forces compact the ground pressing the particles tighter and minimizing the pores  The excavation in building any structure results in a disturbance of the delicate network of natural capillaries. This causes the water to build up around the structure’s foundation. This added weight creates an enormous amount of force. This pressure pushes the water into the structure through cracks and joints.

Hydrologic Cycle


    The hydrologic cycle is a constant movement of water above, on, and below the earth's surface. It is a cycle that replenishes groundwater supplies. It begins as water vaporize into the atmosphere from vegetation, soil, lakes, rivers, snowfields and oceans-a process called evapotranspiration.

    As the water vapor rises it condenses to form clouds that return water to the land through precipitation: rain, snow, or hail. Precipitation falls on the earth and either percolates into the soil or flows across the ground. Usually it does both. When precipitation percolates into the soil it is called infiltration; when it flows across the ground it is called surface runoff. The amount of precipitation that infiltrates, versus the amount that flows across the surface, varies depending on factors such as the amount of water already in the soil, soil composition, vegetation cover and degree of slope.

    The velocity at which water travels through an aquifer is proportional to the hydraulic conductivity and hydraulic gradient, and inversely proportional to the porosity. Of these three factors, hydraulic conductivity generally has the most effect on velocity. Thus, aquifers with high hydraulic conductivities, such as sand and gravel deposits, will generally transmit water faster than aquifers with lower hydraulic conductivities, such as silt or clay beds.

Rainwater and Groundwater


In a one-inch rain, 1,250 gallons of water fall on the roof of a 2,000-square-foot house. Without proper grading, gutters, and downspouts  some of this water flows into the basement. The below-grade water table can also rise due to flooding or seasonal site conditions. This is why Water Management Systems are necessary around basement walls even in sandy or gravel soils.

Capillary Suction


Capillary suction moves moisture through porous materials. The water is drawn upward through small pores in the concrete footing and slab and laterally through walls. This effect creates the ring of dampness seen at the base of many basement walls. This is very common at cold joints. 


Water can rise by capillary draw significantly as shown below:

 Soil Type Capillary Rise
 Gravel Less than a few inches
 Sand 1 to 8 Feet
 Silt 12 to 16 Feet
 Clay 12 to 20 Feet

Ineffective Drain Tile and Sump Pit


PROBLEM: Many existing houses simply have no subsurface drainage system. This comes from a time when basements were not used as habitable space. In other cases, the systems do not work for a variety of reasons, such as collapse of the pipe, clogging of the pipe with silt and/or tree roots, or a broken connection to the sump. The sump pit usually contains a pump designed to lift the water to the ground surface outside the foundation wall and this pump can fail.

Foundation Tar 


All homes are waterproofed when built. The majority of those homes are waterproofed with an asphalt-based product (tar). 


Problem: Tar is biodegradable. It has a shelf life of 7 years. Eventually the tar will dehydrate & lose its' elasticity. When that happens the tar will crack while the house settles. Once the tar cracks the water has a direct path to the concrete, which will then absorb the water. 

Concrete


Foundations are built with all or some concrete. 


Problem: Concrete is porous. It absorbs water like a sponge. A foundation does not need a crack to leak. If water or moisture comes near a concrete surface the concrete will absorb the water. ALL foundations are built with concrete. Even brick, stone and terracotta foundations use concrete (mortar) as a leveling agent. 

Outdated System


A clay sump pit and drainage pipes (drain tile) are a sure bet that your waterproofing system is original and may be in need of an overhaul.


Clay is an outdated material that is still commonly used by home builders to cut down on build costs. These days, clay drain tile has all but been completely replaced by stronger, non-corrosive, longer lasting PVC pipe.


Perforated PVC pipe is the preferred alternative because it eliminates the possibility of common issues like shifting, clogging, and cracking. Also, by surrounding the perforated pipe with washed gravel, we can eliminate the risk of roots pushing their way into the pipe, while still allowing for maximum water drainage.


Solution: Our highly experienced design specialists have seen it all. Unfortunately sometimes things just need to be removed and replaced.  The Basement Professor will take your old sump pump out, and install a new heavy duty basin and submersible cast-iron pump.

How do I stop my wet basement problems?

An Overview of Solutions to Basement Moisture Problems

 

The best way to approach any building problem is to first do the things that are easy and inexpensive. Then proceed in a logical order doing the next least costly technique. Though with serious problems, the most effective approach is almost always to remove and control the source of the moisture with a water management system. An industry professional should always inspect the situation. 


The simplest and least expensive techniques are to remove excessive internal moisture sources in the basement and install proper ventilation. Dehumidifiers can be used as a means of reducing the symptoms of humidity and odor in a basement, but they are not a permanent or complete solution. Infact, if a dehumidifier is used in a basement with moisture problems, it may cause greater damage. By drying out the basement air, moisture is drawn into the basement more rapidly causing efflorescence and spalling of concrete and further damage to interior finishes.


It is appealing to solve a basement moisture problem with a membrane or coating on the inside. It is less expensive than a drainage system and may work for a time in some cases. The problem with these "temporary solutions" and quick fixes are that the water is still there causing these systems to deteriorate or simply move the water to another pathway into the basement.


The recommended approach after removing interior moisture sources is to evaluate the gutters, downspouts, and surface grading around the house. These should be corrected and may solve the problem. 


When the moisture problem persists, proceed with installing a water management system. 


*If your goal is to finish a basement that has water problems, it is recommended to first deal with the water problem.


Our clients can rest assured that their home and family will be safe from dangers that stem from unwanted water. Our well educated friendly industry experts will make the restoration and water management of your home a stress free experience.

Exterior Drainage System

Installing an exterior drainage system to an existing building is an effective water control approach but is the most expensive. This requires digging up the area around the foundation and rebuilding it similar to a new house installation. It also requires digging up shrubs and other obstacles around the house.

A waterproofing membrane and insulation are installed, in addition to making any repairs to the structure. The traditional exterior drainage systems use free-draining sand in the backfill. Drain tile can be placed beside or on top of the footing. A minimum of 12 inches of coarse aggregate is placed around the drain tile.

Interior Above Slab Drainage System
(Not Recommended)

In most cases when water is entering the basement, an interior drainage system is installed. 

Method: The simplest and least costly approach that many companies try to sell is a drainage system adhered between the wall and the floor. Water is collected and drained into a sump well using another channel placed on top of the slab, then discharged. The sump well should have an airtight, childproof cover.  

Problem: This system cannot drain groundwater from under the floor slab. It does not solve the problem in masonry walls because water remains in the block cores at floor level and the water level is only lowered to the top of the slab. With this approach the water is not completely removed. The result is that humidity, mold, and mildew can still be a problem. 

Interior Above Footer Drainage System

(Not Recommended)


Method: Install a drainage channel at the base of the wall on top of the footing. This requires removing and then replacing the concrete along the slab edge. The drainage channel is connected to a drain pipe leading to the sump. The sump should have an airtight, childproof cover. This approach is more effective than the interior above slab drainage system because it drains the block cores completely. Holes must be drilled at the base of every block core to permit drainage. This may require removing more than the minimum amount of concrete, as shown, to fit the drill in. These systems have different shapes and prices depending on the product installed. Because moisture is allowed to penetrate the block cores, it is essential to cap the tops and place a vapor-retarder coating on the interior basement walls.

The Basement Professor's Interior Below Slab 

Water Management System

Highly Recommended!


The most effective of the interior drainage systems is a perforated drain pipe installed inside the perimeter of the footing! 


Method: Placing the drain pipe beneath the slab inside of the footer allows for optimum drainage removing water before it has the opportunity to reach the floor.  Covering the Four (4") Inch Perforated Pipe in Drain-Sleeve, a seamless, knitted polyester fabric, prevents soil among other elements from clogging the system. The Pea Rock breaks the capillary action between the ground and the concrete floor, allowing the water that accumulates under the floor to easily move to the tile drains and into the sump. A critical component of this approach is MiraDRAIN, a high-performance, chemical resistant, rigid PVC drainage composite consisting of a three-dimensional high-impact PVC core with a similar appearance to a small egg crate. It is placed at the base of the wall and beneath the slab over the pea rock which permits free drainage of the wall into the drain pipe. Strip-Drain, a modular groundwater water collection system consisting of a dimpled high impact polystyrene core with a non-woven polypropylene geotextile filter fabric wrapped around it to form a drainage channel. Strip-Drain has the ability to reach water that is too shallow for a perforated pipe.

Installation: A twelve (12) to eighteen (18) inch wide trench is cut along the basement/crawlspace perimeter. The concrete, dirt, sand and/or stone is removed allowing access to extend below the footing. Weep holes are drilled into the block walls to allow for free drainage. Strip Drain is placed on the bottom of the trench. A four (4”) perforated pipe covered in Drain-Sleeve is installed on top and surrounded in a bed of clean crushed three quarter (¾”) inch stone and is angled towards the well. A sump basin, with an airtight, child proof cover and pump are installed and are connected to the perimeter system. If a discharge-line is used to expel the water from the pump, it is run a minimum of twenty (20') from the foundation perimeter, preventing water from returning.

The Professor’s Interior Water Management System is available in full and partial packages.


Back- Up SumpPump System: A Basement professor recommended addition to any system. These systems are designed to protect yourbasement from flooding in the event of a power outage, or the primary pumpfails to turn on for any reason. They are often referred to as your "lastline of defense" against basement flooding.

Invest In Your Home.

Add usable storage and living space at a fraction of the cost of additions.

Do you have space in your basement that you would rather be hiding?


Investing in your home and solving your wet basement problem is a smart move. A 10-20% reduction in the value of a home is common due to a wet basement. A wet basement can waste an entire level of your home, space that could have been used for storage or extra living space, losing usable square footage to the home. Ruined finished basements, damaged stored items and appliances are all a result of wet basements. It makes no sense to live in a home with an unusable wet basement or a basement that floods (even once in a while). The Basement Professor can easily provide a permanent solution!


If it happened once, it will happen again…

With the Basement Professor, you can be utilizing that extra space to add value to your home!


Foundation problems including water intrusion, wall & floor cracks, bowed walls, sinking & settling foundations, just to name a few, will not fix themselves if left alone. Without the Basement Professor to permanently fix this problem, history will repeat itself and continue to make your basement area a wasted potential living and storage space. BP's waterproofing products are designed to be customized to any basement situation. Basements are not created the same, foundation walls differ from house to house, as do basement flooring and even the general layout of a basement may be cause for special attention. For this reason, the same-standard waterproofing system does not always hold the answer. The Basement Professor is the only waterproofing/ foundation repair company that has used the technology to customize a waterproofing system uniquely designed to fit every individual basement.  Each foundation repair issue deserves individual attention along with it’s own, unique solution. A dry, usable basement will increase the value of a home.


We look forward to helping you maximize your homes’ potential!

Other concerns...

Mold & Mildew


Mold can be a serious problem for many people. Mold, while not particularly resilient, can return very quickly if the remediation is improperly performed and preventative measures are not taken. A few varieties of mold can cause health problems, but even your ordinary, everyday mold can cause damage to food, paper, drywall and other materials.


Mold can be removed from non-porous surfaces by scrubbing the surfaces with a non-ammonia cleaner or detergent. 

Molds are naturally occurring. Every breath we take includes mold spores. Additionally, mold spores need 2 things to reproduce: moisture and an organic substance (dirt, dust, wood, etc). What most people don't realize is that no matter how clean a home is there will always be a level of mold spores in the home. 

If these mold spores come in contact with moisture and an organic substance the spore will begin to reproduce. When spores reproduce they will release VOC's (volatile organic compounds). Some will release mycotoxins. These 2 things (VOC's and mycotoxins) are the culprits of most health problems caused by mold. Children, senior citizens and people with immune or respiratory diseases are most susceptible to the hazards of mold. 

Structural Cracks


PROBLEM: Concrete And concrete block foundations usually develop some cracks. They can be severe if floor joists are not properly connected to the foundation wall, thus permitting the wall to move. Also, soil settling causes cracking. Places where walls meet rigid structures like the fireplace often crack as well. Usually,drainage removes the water from cracks, but repair may be necessary.


SOLUTION: Depending on the extent of damage  foundation walls may need to be replaced while others can be repaired.Once the Basement Professor evaluates your home’s unique problem we can determine the proper and most effective solution. Interior solutions may incorporate wall bracing, I-Beams, Carbon Fiber, epoxy injections, interior water management systems, along with other applications of repair. We have interior applications to waterproof concrete blocks from the inside, if the block is unfinished.Outside solutions involve excavation, crack repair, wall rebuilding or total replacement  support piers and anchors, home leveling, waterproofing membranes,and water management systems. To prevent future damage, it may be determined that  removing and replacing the fill which encompasses your home with the 51%minimum code requirement of sand and/or gravel may be necessary.

Improperly Designed Window Wells


PROBLEM: Window wells are like a drain right next to the basement wall. Often they are improperly built so that any water is directed toward, rather than away from the foundation.


SOLUTION: Window wells should be filled from the footing to the window sill with 3/8- to 3/4-inch coarse aggregate. A window well tap should extend from the footing to the base of the window well.

Dry Rot


Dry Rots occurs when moisture comes in contact with wood for any length of time. Dry rot can lead to wood in a home shrinking and turning dark in color and can be seen on walls, baseboards, joists, floor or the bottom of a wood staircase and  This is due to excess moisture entering the foundation through your walls and floor. 


Problem: Dry rot fungus is also a major health concern.


Solution: If the condition is detected early enough and the moisture problem is dealt with promptly, the wood may dry out on its own. A serious case of dry rot will need to be dealt with by replacing the affected wood.

Drainage Comparison

 

Poor Drainage

 

Proper Drainage

Foundation Raising and Leveling

Concrete often fails due to poor soils, voids, tree roots, moisture, etc. Settled concrete generally create a vertical displacement, which is a huge liability, especially if this is your sidewalk or driveway.

Mudjacking is also known as: Slabjacking, Concrete Raising, and Pressure Grouting. Mudjacking is a cost-effective alternative to replacing concrete. Mudjacking (or concrete raising) can usually be done for less than half the cost of pouring new concrete. However, the savings may be even greater since concrete raising eliminates the costs of demolition, removal, and landscaping. Mudjacking is the process of pumping a water, dirt and cement mixture under a concrete slab in order to lift it. Once the mudjacking is complete, both the concrete slab, and the soil beneath it, will be much more structurally sound.

Polyurethane concrete raising achieves the same results as traditional mudjacking with a lightweight material that requires smaller and fewer injection holes. Also known as Foam Lifting, polyurethane concrete raising is the latest and greatest concrete repair method. Essentially, foam is injected into the soil, which will result in filling and expanding into all the voids, lifting and aligning the concrete, stabilizing the soil and concrete from moving again. This method is more expensive than mudjacking.

Piering is another type of concrete foundation raise repair. This method involves using jacks to raise the sunken part of the foundation. This is a delicate process as raising the foundation too quickly can cause further damage. Once the foundation has been brought back up to grade piers and footing are installed to support the foundation and keep it in place and is the most expensive means to raise your foundation.If you have poor soil, you may need other remedies besides solely raising your concrete. Concrete raising may only be a temporary solution. Be sure to address this with your contractor.

Foundation Draining

Foundation drainage refers to any system designed to divert or direct water away from a foundation. Such drainage includes systems installed outside the edge of foundations as well as systems that are installed under foundations.

In many areas the ability of soils to support a foundation is affected by the amount of water in the soils. Too much water can cause soils to be muddy, and a foundation can sink. Too much water, and expansive soils will lift a house up. Good foundation drainage helps to keep excess water away from a foundation and to prevent problems.

The cost of foundation drainage normally starts at around $1,500 and goes up from there depending on the amount of yard contouring or French drains that need to be installed. More elaborate drainage systems cost more.

Basement Waterproofing Terminology

Sump Pump: A Sump Pump is a pump that removes accumulated water from a sump pit, basin, well or other location.


Sump Pumps are frequently installed to stop and prevent basement flooding, but they may also be used to ameliorate dampness by lowering the water table under the foundation. Sump pumps pipe water away (discharge line) from the house to a place where it no longer presents a hazard, such as a municipal storm drain or dry well.


Sump Pumps are constructed out of plastic, steel, or cast iron. They are available in two categories, Automatic and Manual. An automatic sump pump turns on and off when water  is detected. A manual sump pump must be turned on and off manually.


The Basement Professor only uses Zoeller Cast Iron Submersible Pumps as the primary pump.  A solid cast iron sump pump can endure heavy-duty functions, and is built to last for generations. Submersible pumps are quieter than pedestal pumps because the motor is enclosed. Submersible pumps allow for a solid airtight lid on the pump basin. Zoeller pumps have thermal shut down switches which turn the pump off before they can overheat.

Battery Back-Up Sump Pump: A Battery Back-Up Sump Pump adds a layer of protection to your water management system and is often thought of as a form of "insurance." It is used in the event that something goes wrong down in the sump pit minimizing it's performance or preventing it entirely. If there is a power outage, a failed sump pump, a stuck float switch or a significant increase in water of which the sump pump cannot handle the inflow, the battery backup sump pump turns on. This means your basement will remain dry during any of these occurrences.

Battery: A 12 Volt Marine Battery has the ability to power a back-up sump pump continuously for up to 8 hours in the event of a power outage reducing the chance of flooding. The battery back-up charges the battery when it is not in use, so in the event of a power outage the battery will be at full capacity.

Pump Basin:  A Pump Basin is commonly found in the basement positioned in a hole in the ground. It serves both as the casing for the sump pump and to collect water. The water may enter via perimeter drains funneling into the pit, or may arrive from natural ground water in the earth allowing for the sump pump to effectively remove it. A Pump Basin may also be referred to as a sump basin, a sump pit, a pump pit, a pump well, et cetra.

Channel Drain:  A Channel Drain, also referred to as a trench drain, are a commonly used exterior drain. They are designed specifically to catch large amounts of surface water traffic. If you have a doorway or stairway that leads to the outside or a garage, you need to have a trench drain installed in front of it. The drain is shaped like a half of a pipe with a grate on top of it. The grate sits flush or slightly below the ground to prevent any water that may enter from the outside. The trench drain is the perfect solution if you have a less than a water tight entrance.

Drain-Sleeve: A Drain-Sleeve is a seamless, knitted polyester fabric that provides a uniform opening size for consistent filtration and maximum water flow for drainage applications. The manufacturer guarantees the fabric for as long as the pipe and sock are in the ground and out of direct sunlight. The fabric should last around 100 years.   

MiraDRAIN: MiraDRAIN  is a high-performance, chemical resistant, rigid PVC drainage composite consisting of a three-dimensional high-impact PVC core. MiraDRAIN is designed for use in horizontal and vertical drainage applications, where single-sided subsurface drainage is required. It is placed on top of the stone covering the perforated pipe and is folded so that it extends up the foundation wall four to six inches funneling any water in the walls down into the drainage system. It offers relief of hydrostatic pressure buildup against subterranean surfaces. Its high compressive strength system withstands installation and in-situ earth stresses. It enhances the waterproofing system by channeling water away and providing a secondary water retention layer.

Strip Drain:  A strip drain is a modular groundwater water collection system consisting of a dimpled high impact polystyrene core with a non-woven polypropylene geotextile filter fabric wrapped around it to form a drainage channel. A strip drain has the ability to reach water that is too shallow for a perforated pipe.

Dehumidifier: A dehumidifier is a household appliance that reduces the level of humidity in the air, usually for health reasons. Humid air can cause mold and mildew to grow inside homes, which pose various health risks. Very humid air make some people extremely uncomfortable, causing excessive sweating that can't evaporate in the already-moisture-saturated air. Humidity causes condensation and attracts pests, including moths, fleas, cockroaches, woodlice and dust mites. It is preferable to keep humidity levels under 50 percent. 

Mold Questions


Do I Have a Mold or Moisture Problem?


You have a mold or moisture problem if you seediscolored patches (could be dark or many other colors) or cottony or speckledgrowth on walls or furniture, or evidence of water-damaged surfaces, or if yousmell an earthy or musty odor.  You also may suspect mold growth or amoisture problem if people have upper or lower respiratory symptoms whenin the house, classroom, or workplace.


If you see mold or current water damage in yourbuilding, you should look for the source of moisture.  You may find moldgrowth underneath water-damaged surfaces (for example, wallpaper or carpet) orbehind furniture, walls, floors, or ceilings.


How Do I Know if Mold Is Affecting My Family's Health?


Basically, if you see indoor water damage,dampness, or mold, or smell mold, the chances are higher that people in the building will have or may develop respiratory health problems. So whether or not you know of a respiratory health problem associated with being in the building, you should identify and eliminate excess moisture sources and cleanup and remove water-damaged materials and mold.  This will help prevent future problems, especially for infants and children.  Both allergic and non-allergic people can become sick from dampness and mold.  The best time to solve a health problem is before it happens.


Some of the following persons may have more severe symptoms from mold or become ill more readily than others:

· Individuals with existing respiratory conditions, such as allergies, asthma, or environmental sensitivities

· Persons with weakened immune systems (such as HIV-infected persons or cancer chemotherapy patients)

· Infants and young children

· Older persons

 

Should I Test for Mold, or Have a Professional Test for Mold?


It is not necessary to know how many mold spores orwhat type of mold is present to determine if a mold problem needs to befixed.  If you observe visible mold growth or water-damaged surfaces, orsmell moldy or musty odors, there is an underlying moisture problem that mustbe first identified and fixed.  All moldy materials must also be removedor, if they are not porous, they can be cleaned.  Removing or cleaningmold without fixing the underlying moisture problem is not enough to protecthealth.


There are many consultants and organizations thatwill offer to test your indoor environment for mold, either in air or dustor on surfaces.  However, these tests are not scientificallyinterpretable at this time.  In all scientific research so far, visiblemold, water damage, and mold odors have been consistently associated withhealth effects like asthma and allergies; measurements of mold have not.

 

What Should I Do if I Have a Mold or Moisture Problem?


Identify the location in your building with evidentdampness or mold.  If the source of the problem is visible, eliminate thesource of moisture and clean mold from moldy surfaces.  If the moldis on porous materials such as carpet or upholstered furniture, you may need todiscard and replace them. 

You may need professional help if you cannot findthe source of mold or moisture or if you cannot fix the problem.  It canbe difficult in some cases to identify the source or design an effectivesolution.  Mold may be growing behind wallpaper, above ceiling tiles,under carpets, or inside the ventilation system.  Moisture meters may helpyou to identify hidden moisture inside walls, ceilings, and building surfaces.

 

How Do Professionals Test for Mold?


The US EPA and the CDC do not recommend testing formold to decide if there is a dampness or mold problem that needs to befixed.  The presence of dampness, water damage, or mold, or of moldy odorsis all the evidence you need to know that the dampness or mold problem needs tobe fixed.  Results of sampling for mold are not scientificallyinterpretable yet for making decisions about health effects.


However, the US EPA recommends that if you decideto test for mold, the sampling should be conducted by a professional who hasspecific experience in designing protocols for mold sampling, in performingsampling for molds and dampness, and in the interpretation of testresults.  There is some preliminary evidence that non-culture-basedmethods, using "polymerase chain reaction" measurements of mold indust, may be useful.  Sample collection and analysis should follow methodsrecommended by the American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA), the AmericanConference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), or other reputableprofessional organizations.  Ideally, sample analyses should be conductedby a laboratory accredited for the tests being performed and that participatesin a proficiency performance evaluation program.

 

Are There Biological Tests for Mold?


No blood, urine, or other clinical tests have beendocumented as valid methods to determine if a person has been exposed to moldor mold toxin, the amount of mold to which someone was exposed, or if mold hasmade him/her ill.  Skin-prick and blood tests can identify if a person ishypersensitive (allergic) to mold; however, molds also have health effectsthat are not allergic, so such a test may not be very informative.

 

When I Clean Up Mold, Do I NeedProtection, or Should I Hire a Professional?


A homeowner or building maintenance personnel generally can handle small mold problems, total area less than 10 square feet, by using personal protective equipment.  Large contamination problems require an experienced, professional contractor.  However, the size criteria are based on professional judgment and practicality because we have limited information in this area.  Solving moisture problems may require professional help.

The towns, boroughs and neighborhoods that we currently serve are: Abington PA, Allentown PA, Ambler PA, Aston PA, Audubon PA, Avondale PA, Bala Cynwyd PA, Bangor PA, Bath PA, Bedminster PA, Bensalem PA, Berwyn PA, Bethlehem PA, Blooming Glen PA, Blue Bell PA, Bridgeport PA, Bristol PA, Brookhaven PA, Broomall PA, Bryn Athyn PA, Bryn Mawr PA, Buckingham PA, Carversville PA,  , Chadds Ford PA, Chalfont PA, Cheltenham PA, Chester Heights PA, Chester Springs PA, Chester PA, Cheyney PA, Coatesville PA, Collegeville PA, Colmar PA, Concordville PA, Conshohocken PA, Coopersburg PA, Croydon PA, Crum Lynne PA, Danboro PA, Devault PA, Devon PA, Doylestown PA, Dresher PA, Dublin PA, Eagleville PA, Earlington PA, East Greenville PA, Easton PA, Edgemont PA,  Elkins Park PA, Emmaus PA, Exton PA, Fairless Hills PA, Fairview PA, Fairview Village PA, Feasterville PA, Fleetwood PA, Flourtown PA, Forest Grove PA, Fort Washington PA, Fountainville PA, Franconia PA, Furlong PA, Gardenville PA, Glen Mills PA, Glen Riddle Lima PA, Glenmoore PA, Glenolden PA, Glenside PA, Gradyville PA, Green Lane PA, Gwynedd Valley PA, Gwynedd Station PA, Hamburg PA, Harleysville PA, Hatboro PA, Hatfield PA, Haverford PA, Havertown PA, Hellertown PA, Hereford PA, Hilltown PA, Holicong PA, Honey Brook PA, Horsham PA, Huntingdon Valley PA, Immaculata PA, Jamison PA, Jenkintown PA, King Of Prussia PA, Kulpsville PA, Kutztown PA, Lahaska PA, Landenberg PA, Langhorne PA, Lansdale PA, Lederach PA, Leesport PA, Lehighton PA, Lenni PA, Levittown PA, Line Lexington PA, Lionville PA, Lower Merion PA, Lumberville PA, Mainland PA, Main Line PA, Malvern PA, Marcus Hook PA, Mechanicsville PA, Media PA, Mendenhall PA, Merion PA, Merion Station PA, Milford Square PA, Montgomeryville PA, Morrisville PA, Narberth PA, Nazareth PA, New Hope PA, New Tripoli PA, Newtown Square PA, Newtown PA, Norristown PA, North Wales PA, Northampton PA, Oreland PA, Ottsville PA, Oxford PA, Palm PA, Paoli PA, Parkesburg PA, Penns Park PA, Pennsburg PA, Perkasie PA, Philadelphia PA, Pineville PA, Pipersville PA, Plumsteadville PA, Pocopson PA, Point Pleasant PA, Pottstown PA, Quakertown PA, Radnor PA, Reading PA, Red Hill PA, Richboro PA, Richlandtown PA, Riegelsville PA, Rosemont PA, Royersford PA, Rushland PA, SchwenksvillePA, Sellersville PA, Silverdale PA, Slatington PA, Solebury PA, SoudertonPA, Southampton PA, Spinnerstown PA, Spring House PA, SpringfieldPA, Sumneytown PA, Swarthmore PA, Swarthmore Station PA, Telford PA, ThorntonPA, Trevose PA, Trumbauersville PA,  Tylersport PA, Upper Black Eddy PA, Upper Merion PA, Uwchland PA,  Valley Forge PA, Villanova PA, Wallingford PA, Warminster PA, Warrington PA, Washington Crossing PA, WaynePA, West Chester PA, West Grove PA, West Point PA, Westtown PA, WillowGrove PA, Woodlyn PA, Woxall PA, Wycombe PA, Wyncote PA, Zionhill PA. 


If we have performed worked in your town but we missed you on our list, please give us a call so that we may correct it.

Thank you!


Stone Patios and Driveways


Residential homes and commercial properties both value what a stone patio or driveway can do for them. With most projects, the decision to put in a particular style is based largely on personal preference, though purpose may be a factor. For instance if you want a driveway, you would have to take into account the traffic that the driveway would have to contend with. Of course many people opt for certain types of stone purely on its decorative features. Bricks & Beams offers a wide selection of color and size stone options which are suitable for all intended purposes. Stone patios and driveways can be installed in endless options in designs and patterns. The bottom line is that there is such a wide variety of styles that you can get the look you want every time.


Stone patios and driveways are low maintenance and they last for decades when properly installed. What many people do not realize is that owning a beautiful patio or driveway is within everyone’s reach.


For those concerned about the environment, stone is the way to go. While they provide a solid support, they are self-draining, allowing rainwater to filter through the surface and reach the soil underneath. In some situations, this can be an option to a water management system.


A stone patio can transform a home and the landscaping around it.


Call us today for a free estimate! (888)719-4869

About Healthy Housing

Healthy Homes

A healthy home is comfortable and safe, and any contaminants in the air and on surfaces are below levels that could harm the occupants.  You could have many kinds of mineral,chemical, or biological contaminants in your house from many sources.  We will discuss here only potential contaminants in indoor air.  We will not discuss contaminants in other forms that can make a house less healthy, such as lead in paint, pollutants in drinking water,outdoor air pollutants, poor lighting, poor ventilation, or noise but that does not mean these are not important. 


Note: The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) offers a web site with a broad range of healthy home information.  The topics we cover here are generally included on the CDC web site, within their topic of Indoor Air Quality (IAQ).  Their site also has information on rodents, fire hazards, medicines, chemicals,pesticides, drowning, and electrical hazards.

 

Additional information on Healthy Homes is available from the National Center for Healthy Housing.

About Volatile Organic Compounds


What are VOCs?


Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are carbon containing chemicals that vaporize and can enter the body through normal breathing.  VOCs can come from many sources.  They are used as ingredients in paints, cleaning products, and adhesives.  They are released by building materials such as carpet, linoleum, composite wood products, and insulation to name a few.  Office equipment such as printers, copiers, and fax machines may also emit VOCs.


VOCs are chemicals that have high vapor pressures and fairly low boiling points and that tend to vaporize from the liquid or solid state under normal atmospheric conditions.  Vapor pressure relates to the equilibrium of a substance between its solid or liquid state and its gas state, that is, the rate at which a liquid evaporates or a solid sublimates.  If the vapor pressure is high, then the substance will move to the gas phase more quickly.  Substances with high vapor pressure at room temperature are said to be volatile. VOCs also often have low boiling points (often below room temperature) that contribute to their vaporization.  Examples of some common VOCs are formaldehyde, benzene, toluene, limonene, and hexane.


Removing VOCs from the Air:


Using an activated carbon (a carbon or charcoal that is very porous and has a large surface area) filter is the most reliable way to remove VOCs from the air.  VOCs attach to and accumulate on the activated carbon in the process known as adsorption. These filters become exhausted or "spent" and must be frequently replaced. Otherwise, the adsorbed VOCs may desorb, or leave the surface of the activated carbon and return to the air.

GLOSSARY OF BASEMENT WATERPROOFING TERMS

 

Above-Grade Waterproofing: The prevention of a wet basement above ground level through the use of basement waterproofing products or systems that are not exposed to hydrostatic pressure.

 

Absolute Humidity: The amount ofwater vapor present in a unit volume of air.

 

Absorption: The accumulation ofwater or vapor drawn directly into the structure’s cells.

 

Active soils: A non-loadbearing soil mass that is moving due to changing moisture levels.

 

Acid: As the earth around your foundation settles from capillary action, the movement may shift your foundation. Since the air pressure within your basement cannot hold against outside water pressure, the imbalance of pressure may cause your walls to shift and crack. Water absorbs into your wall bringing silt along with it.This silt has an acidic quality which reacts with the adhesive (lime) in the block. This reaction deteriorates the block making it susceptible to hydrostatic pressure which leads to structural damage.

 

 Adobe: A brick or building material made of sun-dried earth and straw.

 

Aqueduct: Aconduit for carrying a large volume of flowing water. 

 

Backfill: Materialused to fill in an excavation.


Backhoe: A backhoe is an excavation machine with a large bucket used for digging and backfilling around the exterior of the foundation in certain types of waterproofing processes. 

 

Basement: One or more floorsof a structure that are partially or fully below ground level.

 

Basement Waterproofing: The management of water seeping onto basement floors or leaking basement wall.

 

Bedrock: The solid rocklayer under the surface of the soil.

 

Below Grade: Any part of thehouse or structure that is underground or beneath ground level.


Bleeder: A Concrete orplastic drain pipe, one of the basementwaterproofing products,  that is installed through the footing orfoundation wall to allow transfer of water from the exterior drain tile to theinterior drain tile to help prevent a wetbasement.

 

Carbon Fiber Strips: Pieces ofcarbon fiber material that when bonded to a wall will not stretch. Thesestrips, when installed correctly, will stop cracks from growing but must beused before the damage has progressed too far creating a leaking basement wall.

 

Capillary Action: The wick-likemigration of water into the porous walls and floor into a drybasement in the same manner as water is drawn into a sponge.

 

Caulk: Caulking as aterm has spread to the building trade, meaning the activity of closing upjoints and gaps in buildings.

 

Check Valve: A device thatpermits water flow in only one direction and is commonly installed in the sump pumps discharge line.

 

Cinder Block: A pre-fabricated structural componentconstructed of concrete and cinders that is utilized to construct foundationwalls, retaining walls, etc.

 

Cold Joint: A cold jointis the intersection between the end of one concrete pour and the beginning of anew pour. The basic rule is to try to avoid cold joints by pouring straightthrough until the job is finished. The cold joint is a weak area and could allowthe entry of water creating a wetbasement. 

 

Clay Soil: Soil, whichis composed of very fine particles, usually silicates of aluminium and/or ironand magnesium. Clay soil impedes the flow of water, meaning it absorbs waterslowly and then retains it for a long time causing a wet basement. Wet clay soil is heavyand sticky, and tends to swell from the added moisture. When dry, clay soilshrinks and settles. The top layer can bake into a hard, concrete-like crust,which cracks.

 

Condensation: Theconversion of a molecule of moisture/vapor that when exposed to somethingcolder, decreases in size and squeezes out the denser liquid. This occurs onthe cooler walls and floors and pipes in basements much the same as it does onthe outside of a glass of ice water, and is always worse when the relativehumidity is highest.

 

Cove/Wall Cove: The joint wherethe wall and the floor meet. This is a common area for water intrusion causinga wetbasement. 

 

Cracked Walls or Floors: Cracks can form inwalls and floors for a number of reasons from settlement, expansion andcontraction, water pressure and even by design. The crack is not the problem,it is only the symptom. Water entering through the crack is a problem causinga leaking basement wall andonly enters when there is enough pressure to force it to penetrate the opening.Eliminate the pressure and eliminate the water to create a dry basement. 

 

Crawl Space: A shallowunfinished space beneath the first floor or under the roof usually for accessto plumbing, heating ducts and wiring. Crawl spaces should have adequateventilation to reduce the effects of condensation and to expel stagnant air. Water pipes should be wrapped especially in unheated spaces.

 

Coating: A coating isa covering that is applied to an object to protect it or change its appearance.They may be applied as liquids, gases or solids. Coatings can be used to fixa leaking basement wall.


Concrete Block: Concretemasonry unit used in basement wall construction. Concrete block is commonlyused in nominal 8", 10" or 12" widths and is typically 8"tall by 16" long with 2 open cells in the block. The concrete blocks arestacked with alternating vertical joints using mortar between the joints tohold the block together.

 

Dampness: Liquid diffused orcondensed in a relatively small quantity on the walls or floor. The effects ofmoisture created from capillary action or condensation and can often becontrolled by heating the space, having adequate ventilation, by using aproperly sized dehumidifier or a combination of all the afore mentionedremedies to create a dry basement.

 

Damp-Proofing: An application orsystem that is installed when the house is built to resist water vapor or minoramounts of moisture and acts as a backup to primary waterproofing systems. Damp-proofingmaterials are basementwaterproofing products subject to the effects of weathering anddeterioration and are not effective against water pressure.

 

Dehumidifier: An appliancethat condenses air molecules using cold temperatures which in turn “squeezes”the moisture out of the molecule into a tray which must be emptied when full.It is best to have the unit sized for your particular needs by a qualifiedrepresentative at the local hardware or building supply store as an undersized unit is of little value.

 

Discharge Line: The pipe used todirect the water away often from a sumppump. Discharge lines should be checked periodically to insure there areno obstructions that might restrict the water flow. Long discharge lines willfreeze under the right conditions and should be kept as short as possible innorthern climates.

 

Down Spout: The pipe from theroof gutter system that, in conjunction with the leaders, directs the roofwater away from the foundation.

 

Drain Tile: Previously made ofclay and other hard materials laid end-to-end, drain tile is now commonly madeof flexible, perforated polyethylene tubing and is laid near the footing levelto aid in the control of a wetbasement.


Drain Tile Test: A test ofthe function of the interior drain tile. The drain tile test is performed by flushingwater into the drain tile and observing the amount of water entering the sump pump crock. A diminishedwater flow indicates a clogged or crushed drain tile.

 

Dry Well: A hole in theground filled with gravel or rubble to help cure a wet basement by receiving drainage water and allow it topercolate away.

 

Efflorescence: White mineraldeposits showing on face of masonry due to water leaching through the masonryto the dry surface.

 

Epoxy Injection: The injection oflow-viscosity epoxy materials into foundation cracks of the wall. However, ifcontinued movement or settlement occurs the epoxy will crack.


Epoxy: One of the basement waterproofing products usedto repair cracks in concrete or masonry. Epoxy is a material that can beinjected into wall cracks and when cured forms a very strong bond with the basematerial. Epoxy can be used for the structural repair of a leaking basement wall. 

 

Expansive Soils: Soils thatswell when exposed to moisture. These swelling soils typically contain clayminerals that attract and absorb water. Another category of expansive soilknown as swelling bedrock contains a special type of mineral called clay stone.

 

Exterior Footing Drain: A tube or cylinderor box that is normally installed around the exterior perimeter of thefoundation footings that collects and directs ground water away from thefoundation of the house used in basementwaterproofing.

 

Erosion: The wearingof land or soil by the action of wind, water, orice. 

 

Flooring: Flooring is the generalterm for a permanent covering of a floor. It is usually used to mean woodflooring, but it can also refer to carpets, laminate flooring, raised flooring,and linoleum.

 

Footing: Concrete pouredinto a form below the frost line and above the normal water table and allowedto cure. This then becomes the base upon which the walls are built and helps todistribute the load.

 

Foundation Cracks: Fractures inconcrete walls or slabs generally derived from differential settlement orlateral pressures.

 

Foundation Movement: Is an apparentpost-construction movement of a foundation system that is detectable by changesin elevation accompanied by visible signs of distress, such as drywall cracks,doors out of square in their frames, concrete cracks, etc. These changes arenecessary in order to confirm that movement has occurred after the originalconstruction was completed.

 

Foundation Repair: The art ofunderpinning or stabilizing a structure that has moved from its originallyconstructed design.

 

Foundation Settling: Verticalmovement of a foundation wall due to undersigned consolidation of soilssupporting the structure.


Foundation Wall: Supportingportion of a structure below the first floor construction or below grade. 

 

Freeze-Thaw Cycle: The cycle of waterfreezing and later thawing and the effects it has on the material it is aroundor absorbed into often is a contributing factor to a wet basement.

 

Gap or Floating Floor: The spaceleft in the cement, usually by the wall, to accept water from above floor leveldirectly into the drainage system which then flows into the sump pump crock, and also toallow for expansion and contraction of the floor.


Grade: Reference to the pitch ofthe exterior ground surface adjacent to the building.

 

Ground Water: Ground water iswater that has drained through surface layers of soil and rock until it reachesa layer of rock material through which it cannot pass, or can pass only veryslowly. This results in the accumulation of water in the rock layers above thisimpermeable layer. The water is stored in gaps in the rock, or between theparticles of which the rock is composed often causing a wet basement. 

 

Heaving: Heaving is asituation where a foundation is raised higher than its normal elevation; thisis due to expanding soils.

 

Hollow Block Foundation: Block walls thathave open hollow cavities designed within the block. These cavities allow waterto collect inside the walls and cause a leaking basement wall.

 

Horizontal Cracks: Usuallyassociated with bowing or displacement of masonry walls that are not plumbvertically and/or horizontally.

 

Hydrology: Hydrology is the science of water in all itsforms as related to its occurrence in streams, lakes, rivers etc. and uses,conservation, and control.

 

Hydraulic Cement: A basement waterproofing product sometimesreferred to as “Hot Patch” because of the heat generated during itsexceptionally quick curing time.

 

Hydrophilic: Chemicalproperties that draw or absorb water.

 

Hydrostatic Pressure: Still waterpressure. Often caused by a high water table it is the pressure exerted againstthe foundation by various heights of water at rest. The same type of pressureyou feel when you try to push a bucket into a pool of water. To some degree,this is the same pressure that allows ships to stay afloat. Hydrostaticpressure is a main cause of a wetbasement. 

 

Hydrostatic Pressure(2):Rain, melting snow, or springs will contribute to therising of the water table. This will result in a build-up of pressureunderneath the floor and against your foundation walls. This pressure afterheavy rains can cause structural damage to your foundation.

 

Humidity: A moderatedegree of wetness especially of the atmosphere. High relative humidity canresult in wetness condensing on basement walls and floors, causing the growthof mold. The use of adehumidifier and/or adequate ventilation is recommended to reduce or eliminatethe effects of condensation.

 

Infiltration: Theinadvertent leakage of water, moisture, vapor or air into the building.

 

Iron Bacteria: A slimysubstance, orange in color, which is often mistaken for clay residue that canclog drainage systems and sump pumps. It is actually a bacterium mold that feeds on the nutrients ofthe flowing water.

 

Lateral Pressure: Thepressures exerted upon a wall by surrounding soils. Excessive lateral pressure can cause a leaking basement wall. 


Level: Instrument used formeasuring the plane of a vertical or horizontal surface.

 

Membrane: A flexibleelastomeric material applied to the exterior of thebuilding. 

 

Mildew: A typeof mold where thepathogen occurs as a growth on the host's surface.

 

Mold Removal: Theprocess by which mold is either physically removed or destroyed by chemicalmeans.

 

MonolithicFloor: When the floor and footing are poured together and becomeone single unit. The walls are then built on top of the floor. This isusually evident in a block foundation when the first block is a whole blockwith a mortar line under it on top of the floor. 

 

Mortar Joint: A brick beingsecured to another similar brick or bricks by means of mortar or grout.

 

Negative HydrostaticPressure: Pressure that is water on the opposite sideof the substrate trying to push through, under pressure, which causes allother materials to fail. Floors that are below grade are susceptible to thisnatural force.


Palmer Valve: Storm waterdischarge valve typically located in the side wall of the floor drain, designedto prevent backflow of sanitary sewer into storm water system.


Pilaster: A projection ofmasonry or a filled cell area of masonry for the purpose of bearing concentratedloads or to stiffen the wall against lateral forces.


Plumb Line: A plumb line is a toolfor measuring wall deflection consisting of a weight and string. The string isattached at the top of the wall and the weight is at the end of the stringlocated near the floor providing a straight vertical reference line.Measurements are taken from the string to the wall to determine the amount ofhorizontal deflection in the wall.

 

Polyurethane: A basement waterproofing product thatcan be injected into wall cracks to prevent a leaking basement wall. Polyurethane should not be used for thestructural repair of walls.


Poured Walls: Poured wallsare solid concrete walls that are constructed by setting concrete wall forms,installing steel reinforcing bars and pouring concrete into the forms to createa wall. 

 

Poured ConcreteFoundations: Walls made by pouring concrete into forms, usuallyheld together by tie-rods. When the forms are removed the tie-rods are clippedand this location often leaks because of thermal movement, the curing processand when water pressure is present.

 

Pressure Relief System: Below gradedrainage designed and installed to reduce the effects of a wet basement due to hydrostaticpressure at a level below the basement floor. 

 

Quick Patch: A Quick Curing,Rigid, Concrete Repair Fluid - Extremely strong 4,700 psi but still remainsslightly flexible with 35% elongation.


Radon Gas: Odorless andcolorless slightly radioactive gas that can seep into basements through flooror wall cracks. At certain concentrations Radon Gas is considered a healthhazard.  

 

Rust: Iron oxide thatforms when exposed to oxygen and moisture. 

 

Sealant: A materialapplied to exterior building joints. Sealants should be capable of withstandingcontinuous joint movement during all weather conditions without failing.


Seepage: Water infiltrationthrough masonry walls or floor slab. Seepage is evidenced by damp or leaking basement wall or concretefloor and is an indication that the basement drainage system is overloaded ornot functioning correctly.

 

Silt: Substrateparticles smaller than sand and larger than clay.

 

Solid Block Foundation: Block walls thatare completely filled with cinder of concrete and have no hollow cavities andusually leak at the mortarjoints. 


Spall/Spalling: Thecrumbling or breaking off in small pieces of concrete or masonry usually as aresult of the freeze-thaw cycle or deterioration of reinforcing steel ortie-rods. 

 

Spud Pipe: Steel pipe,3/4" to 1" diameter that is driven into the soil around the perimeterof the building. Water is injected into the soil thru the pipe just above theelevation of the drain tile to test the function of the drain tile.

 

Stair Step Crack: A fracturein a brick or block wall that progresses upward along mortar joints. Thesecracks can be from either lateral pressures or differential settlement and cancause a leaking basement wall.


Steel Restraints: Wallreinforcing used to prevent further movement in basement walls. Steelrestraints are typically composed of steel tubes placed vertically against thebasement walls at 32” or 48" spacing.


Step Cracks: Cracks inmasonry walls that follow the vertical and horizontal joints in the masonry ina stepped fashion. Step cracks can be due to horizontal wall deflection,foundation settlement or shrinkage of concrete masonry.

 

Stone Backfill: Clean crushedaggregate that has a 3/4" diameter and is used to backfill excavations.Stone backfill allows for water to migrate easily towards the drain tilelocated at the basement footing elevation. Additionally, stone backfill willhave minimal settlement around the perimeter of the building after backfilling.

 

Stone Foundation: Walls made oflarge stones stacked on top of one another and usually held together with amortar type substance. This type of foundation is usually older and when themortar deteriorates it allows more water to pass between the stones and notonly cause a wet basement butstructural damage as well. Because the stones are not all the same size andshape, the interior side of the wall is semi-smooth but the exterior side isnot, which causes complications when trying basement waterproofing from the outside.


Sump Crock: Concrete, steelor plastic basin placed below the floor slab in the lowest area of the buildingfor collecting water from drain tile.

 

Tensile Strength: The abilityof waterproofing products to resist being pulled or stretched apart to a point of failure.


Thermal Movement: Movement,either expansion or contraction, caused by temperaturechanges. 

 

Tie-Rods: A steelrod used as a connecting member or brace to hold forms in place whenpouring concrete walls that are clipped when removing the forms.

 

Vertical Cracks: Fractures inbasement walls generally caused by differential settlement or heaving soils. Verticalcracks can cause a wet basement.

 

Wall Deflection: The amountof horizontal movement in a basement wall at any given location with respect toits vertical plane.


Wall Irregularities: Masonrywall corners or areas in the wall that have thickened sections.


Wall Slide: Horizontalmovement of basement wall, usually occurring at the bottom section of the wall.

 

(Water) Vapor: A vapor (Americanspelling) or vapour (British Spelling) is a substance inthe gas phaseat a temperature lowerthan its critical point. Thismeans that the vapor can be condensed toa liquid orto a solid byincreasing its pressure withoutreducing the temperature.

 

(Water) Vapor pressure: theforce exerted by the amount of water vapor in the air, usually measured in milli-bars.

 

Water Seepage: Water oozedthrough a porous material or soil.

 

Water Penetration/Infiltration:Water penetration/ infiltration is the conditionwhere water enters the interior areas of a structure.

 

Water Table: The upper limit ofthe portion of the ground totally saturated with water. This is a major causeof below grade leakage especially through the floor, cove and lower part of thewalls of the basement.

 

Weep Holes: Holes drilledin the lower course of hollow block walls near the footing during basement waterproofing that allowwater trapped inside the cavities to escape.

In need of basement waterproofing? Crawl space waterproofing or vapor barrier installation? 

 

Bricks and Beams, The Basement Professor solves wet basements and leaky crawl spaces in homes and businesses across Southeastern PA. Our advanced technology delivers permanent waterproofing systems and products to solve your basement waterproofing or crawl space waterproofing or vapor barrier issues.


Basement and Crawl Space Waterproofing


There are six ways water can enter your basement or crawl space:

1.  Through floor cracks

2.  Through wall cracks & mortar joints

3.  From bleeding and sweating of walls

4.  Over the footer

5.  Under the footer

6.  Cove joint seepage


A permanent solution to the problem must stop all six ways water can enter your basement or crawl space and it must do it forever. Nothing can get in the way, restrict, or clog the water. If it cannot stop all five ways, then it does not make sense to spend your hard-earned money on that method.


Of all the things you can do to improve your home, waterproofing ranks highest from a return on investment standpoint. In many instances you are increasing the total available space of your home by 33% to 50%. The fact is fixing these problems is more of an investment than an expense. Learn about your return on investment »


Basement Waterproofing Solutions?

The most effective, efficient, and affordable waterproofing solution available is the French drain. In other parts of the nation, the French drain is often referred to as a drain tile but in the northeast, the term French drain is prevalent.

The French drain was named after American innovator Henry French who popularized the idea in the late 1800s as a means of providing farmlands with proper drainage. In those days, drain tiles were little more than a ditch filled with gravel and pitched from a high area to a lower one. They were also generally used outside the home.

While much has changed in the last 120 years, the simple and elegant design of French's drain tile has remained the most efficient and reliable means of keeping water out of a basement. The invention of plastics and the advent of flexible piping and affordable pumps have significantly improved the French drain design. While such a system can still be installed on the outside of the home, an exterior French drain can be prone to clogging.

Because of this, most waterproofers today prefer to install drain tiles around the interior perimeter of a basement, leading to the terms "perimeter drain" or "basement drain tile." Today, modern methods and technologies, combined with a century of research, have led to the most effective and affordable et basement solution available.


Why should you choose Bricks & Beams, the Basement Professor for your Basement Waterproofing?

No other waterproofing company can compete with us when it comes to credentials and customer satisfaction. Consider these points:


No Mess - No dust, no muddy footprints, no mess. We'll cover the floors with drop cloths and your furniture with plastic. As one satisfied customer said, "You left my basement cleaner than it originally was."


Customer Satisfaction - We've got tons of references you can call and testimonials you can read from satisfied customers all over. We've also got an A rating on Angie's List, an A rating with the BBB, and we've never had a complaint with consumer affairs.


Backed By Research - Unlike other companies who depend on a steady flow of brand-new, "patented products" our systems are not something we made up in order to make a quick sale. They are designed by industry experts and backed by decades of research.


Customized Solutions - We don't believe in "one-size-fits-all" systems. This is why we employ a variety of solutions and often combine them in order to ensure that your basement stays dry no matter what.


How much does basement waterproofing cost?

When it comes to wet basement waterproofing solutions, the effectiveness of a solution is not always a simple matter of the amount of money spent. While the cost of waterproofing a basement does depend on the method employed, some of the more expensive methods are not as effective as the simpler, more fool-proof systems.

Over the course of the last century, the French drain has proven itself as the most effective, efficient and affordable way to waterproof a basement. Although many basement waterproofing companies offer "patented" versions, they are all variations on the French drain. For more information on the French drain, visit our French drain page.

In most cases, we recommend to our customers that they include a sump pump as part of their drainage system. When the French drain fills up with water, this water will flow into the sump where it can be safely pumped out of the home.

In addition to French drains and sump pumps, the Basement Professor also offers a variety of other wet basement solutions that can be tailored to suit the individual needs of you and your family. At first, it may seem like the best option is to simply seal up the basement so that water cannot enter. This can be problematic, however, because water will always find some other way of entering the house. If you seal up one crack, more often than not you'll end up with a new leak in a place that never had a leak before since the water has to go somewhere.

Sometimes it is appropriate to dig out the foundation from the outside and seal the foundation walls by applying a tar-like basement waterproofing membrane to the walls. Like sealing a crack, however, this can often cause more problems than it solves. By digging out the soil, you are weakening the natural protective barrier around your foundation wall. Keep in mind that this soil has been sitting next to your home's foundation for the entire life of the structure. No matter how well you attempt to compact the soil after the excavation, it is nearly impossible to mimic decades of settling. The area that has been excavated will now become a weak spot where water will sit, searching for a way of entering your basement.

The French drain, on the other hand, is virtually fool-proof. It will deal with water no matter where it comes from. In addition, it is relatively affordable, can be installed with minimal damage to your home or property, and work can often be completed in one or two days.


What To Look For In a Basement Waterproofing Company

 

A basement waterproofing company is a lot like a dandelion in a spring meadow. If you find one, there’s bound to be a few hundred more out there.


Because leaky basements occur in a pretty substantial number of homes, the number of listings under the heading “basement waterproofing company” in the phone book (or the number of search-engine results on the Internet), is pretty high. If you wanted to, you could just close your eyes and point.


But trust us. You don't want to do that.

 

So how do you choose the right basement waterproofing company when there are so many out there? Isn't it like finding the best honey-roasted peanut in the can?

 

Not really.

 

There’s a whole list of criteria you can use to determine whether a basement waterproofing company is the right one to work on your home. You can check out their list of services. You can ask for customer testimonials. You can get a feel for them by talking to one of their representatives. And you can see what they charge, and how they work, by getting a free estimate.

 

(What? No free estimate? Well, cross that guy off the list.)

 

So, when you're choosing a basement waterproofing company, make a checklist for yourself:

 

A basement waterproofing company should not subcontract.

 

Subcontractors distance you from the company you hired to do the work. A company that hires subcontractors probably doesn't have a whole lot invested in interacting with customers – or making sure they’re satisfied.

 

Research, research, research!

 

Google is your friend here. Look for testimonials on the web, or reviews of the basement waterproofing company in question. Sites like Angie’s List offer comprehensive reviews of all kinds of contractors.

 

Your grandpa was right

 

To get the measure of a man, your grandpa used to say, you got to shake his hand and look in his eye. It’s the same with contractors. See if the company will send a representative over to assess your problem and provide an estimate. This is the time for you to keep your eyes peeled – if you hire this particular contractor, he and his workers will be in your home for several days or weeks. Is that something you want?

 

Hard sell doesn't sell

 

It’s impressive to see someone who’s determined to make a sale, but ultimately the decision is up to you, and a contractor should recognize that. Anyone who says your house will fall down if you don’t hire him right now isn't to be trusted.

 

A good basement waterproofing company is hard to come by. But with a little research and a good eye for quality, you’re sure to get your money’s worth.

 

So why is everyone concerned about a little mold all of a sudden?


Because high concentrations of mold is a Health Risk. Mold spores are like seeds, floating around and hoping to land in a good spot with plenty of organic food and water. When they do, they begin to grow, reproduce and create even more spores, and also give off odors (VOCs) and mycotoxins. This is all very natural and when it's happening outside, healthy immune systems fight off our daily mold intake easily. But indoors, it's another matter. In a healthy home, the concentration of mold spores is the same indoors as it is outdoors, nothing to worry about. Mold doesn't find a good place to grow inside, so it soon dies. But when conditions inside are just right, the combination of humid air and wet surfaces, mold begins to grow, and reproduce. When mold starts reproducing indoors, spore concentrations can quickly skyrocket far beyond the natural levels we are used to outdoors.

 

What's the Risk?


It will destroy your home. Mold is the planet's great decomposer. Eventually, anything organic that mold grows on will break be consumed. So, it's easy to see how mold can damage your home: it ruins drywall, plywood, framing, carpet, furniture or anything else it grows on. It's estimated that 1 in 3 homes in America has a mold issue, and that 1 in 10 is serious enough to cause environmental allergies and respiratory ailments. It's no wonder why most insurance companies have, over the last few years, changed their policies to exclude mold damage from the list of covered issues. The problem is large, and they don't want to pay for it. But, of course, the more serious risk is to your family's health. It destroys your health! Growing mold gives off three dangerous components: Volatile Organic Compounds, Allergens, and Mycotoxins When mold grows indoors; all three components can reach unsafely high concentrations.

 

Here are some of the effects of each component, with scientific references:

 

Volatile Organic Compounds
“Exposure to high levels of volatile organic compounds from any source… can irritate the mucous membranes and affect the central nervous system, producing such symptoms as headaches, attention deficit, inability to concentrate, and dizziness.”

 

Allergens
Due to the presence of allergens on spores, all molds studied to date have the potential to cause an allergic reaction in susceptible humans. Allergic reactions are believed to be the most common exposure reaction to molds. These reactions can range from mild, transitory responses, like runny eyes, runny nose, and throat irritation, coughing, and sneezing; to severe, chronic illnesses such as sinusitis and asthma.

 

Other reported effects such as fever, flu-like symptoms, fatigue,  respiratory dysfunction (including coughing up blood), excessive and regular nosebleeds  dizziness, headaches, diarrhea, vomiting, liver damage, and impaired or altered immune function have been identified in persons who have been exposed to mold via inhalation

 

Mycotoxins
Some molds are capable of producing mycotoxins, natural organic compounds that are capable of initiating a toxic response in vertebrates.

 

Unfortunately, the most common type of interior mold, Stachybotrys , is a producer of dangerous mycotoxins that lung and other respiratory problems as well as memory loss.

 

The Solution

The good news is that mold depends on a wet environment to survive. If you remove the water, the mold dies. So, if you have water just seeping or rushing in, you have to get that fixed, or there will be mold. It's only a matter of time. And if you have mold, you have to clean it up and then figure out where the water's coming from and fix it. If you all you do is clean, the problem will just come right back. Then where is the water coming from? Take a look at our pages on fixing. To learn more, just give us a call at 1-888-719-4869 or fill out the form on our contact page to schedule your FREE Basement Assessment.

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