The Basement Professor

What is vapor intrusion?

Chemicals that are spilled, dumped on the ground,or leak from an underground storage tank can seep into the soil. If the spill or leak is large enough, it can travel down through the soil and get into the groundwater  When a group of chemicals known as volatile organic compounds(volatile chemicals) are released into soil or shallow groundwater, these chemicals evaporate, producing vapors that travel up through the soil. These Vapors can enter nearby homes and businesses through crawl spaces and cracks or other openings in the foundation. This process is known as vapor intrusion.When it occurs, vapor intrusion may cause unhealthy indoor air quality.

What volatile chemicals might enter my home or business through vapor intrusion?

Petroleum products and solvents are common volatile chemicals that can cause vapor intrusion.

Gasoline, diesel fuel, and home heating oil are examples of petroleum products. Examples of solvents include tetrachloroethylene (a common solvent used in the dry cleaning industry, also known as "Perc" or PCE), and trichloroethylene (a common solvent used for cleaning and degreasing, also known as TCE).

Odors are usually associated with petroleum spills or leaks. However, odors are not usually associated with solvent leaks or spills unless large amounts are released.

What is the health concern associated with volatile chemicals in indoor air?

Low levels of volatile chemicals are normally found in indoor air at a typical home or business. Vapor intrusion can add to thesetypes of chemicals but usually at very low levels.

When volatile chemical levels are high enough,people might temporarily experience headaches, nausea, and/or eye andrespiratory irritation. These symptoms usually go away when the person moves into fresh air. If people breathe low levels of these chemicals for many years,there may be a small health risk. Government agencies may take steps to reduceeven low levels of volatile chemicals in order to be cautious and protective of people’s health.

What other sources of volatile chemicals can make indoor air unhealthy?

Paints, paint strippers and thinners, glues,solvents, and air fresheners are examples of products that contain volatilechemicals that can affect indoor air quality. Dry cleaned clothing andcigarette smoke also contribute volatile chemicals to indoor air.

Volatile chemicals occur in outdoor air when theyare released from various industries and vehicles. Because buildings are notairtight, outdoor air can enter buildings and affect indoor air quality.

These sources are taken into account whenevaluating whether vapor intrusion is contributing to unhealthy indoor air.

Some steps you can take to prevent releases ofvolatile chemicals from products stored or used at your home or business:

• Do not buymore chemicals than you need at one time.
• Store unusedchemicals in appropriate containers in well ventilated areas away fromliving spaces or work spaces.
• Place freshlydry cleaned clothes in a well-ventilated area.

What happens if vapor intrusion is apossible problem near my home or business?

When vapor intrusion is suspected, it should beinvestigated by the party responsible for the contamination. An investigationtypically involves testing soil, groundwater, and soil gas (air trapped betweensoil particles). This testing helps to determine if volatile chemicals mightpose an indoor air quality problem.

At many contaminated sites, volatile chemicallevels are low and are not considered a problem. Sometimes these levels insoil, groundwater, or soil gas are high enough to cause concerns about indoorair quality in nearby homes or businesses.

When a concern about indoor air quality exists,samples are often collected inside homes or businesses. The samples are neededto determine if the volatile chemical levels in buildings are making indoor airunhealthy and whether vapor intrusion might be responsible. Any air samplingplanned at your home or business requires your permission.

What happens if a vapor intrusionproblem is found?

If soil or groundwater contaminated with volatilechemicals poses a health concern, the most common solution is to install asystem that removes the chemicals before vapors enter a home or business. Thesesystems are similar to those installed in homes in regions of the country whereradon is an issue and are commonly known as soil vapor vacuum systems.

Soil vapor vacuum systems remove the volatilechemicals from the soil below the foundation by sucking the vapors out of thesoil. The vapor is moved through pipes and discharged into outdoor air. If thechemical levels are high, the vapors are treated before being discharged. Whenthese systems are needed, the party responsible for contamination usually paysfor them.

Wood Rot

Many homeowners are familiar with wood damage caused by rot. Theysee it in structural lumber, log homes, eaves, garage doors, exterior doortrim, window casings and other wood used in construction. Current estimatesshow that replacement materials, needed to repair damage caused by rot alone,account for nearly 10 percent of U.S. annual wood production.

Blame for this destruction is sometimes incorrectly placed ontermites or other wood-destroying insects. However, there are no mud tunnels ormines in the wood such as seen with termite and other wood-destroying insects,nor is there any sawdust, which would be evident in the case of carpenter antdamage.

The key to preventing rot is to control the wood's exposure tomoisture and to employ an effective prevention and treatment program. Most wooddecay fungi grow only on wood with high moisture content, usually 20 percent orabove. Green (unseasoned) lumber is a prime target for decay fungi.

Identification

There are two main classes of wood rot. In one type, the decayedarea has a brown discoloration and a crumbly appearance. It usually breaks upinto variously-sized cubes, giving rise to the name "brown cubicalrot." Another type of rot results in a white or yellow discoloration, withthe decayed wood being "stringy" or "spongy."

Although many decay fungi may grow for long periods withoutproducing any external evidence of their presence, others produce"fruiting bodies" on the surface of decaying wood. Fruiting bodiesare usually "crusts" or shelflike "brackets" which are afew inches or so in diameter. The fruiting body of Serpula lacrimans,e.g., is a rust-brown, crust-like structure on the wood surface. It has a waxyappearance, with shallow, net-like folds or "wrinkles." The fruitingbody of Poria incrassata is also crust-like. It is white tolight buff when initially formed, but becomes brown as it ages and dries out.Small pores can be seen in the crust when it is examined with a hand lens. Gleophyllumtrabeum forms bracket-like fruiting bodies. The upper surface of thefruiting body is dull gray-brown and smooth. The lower surface has elongateopenings (pores) or split-like openings (gills). These fruiting bodies producemillions of tiny spores which may, in some cases, serve to spread the decayfungus to other areas.

Also, surface molds, "mildews," and stain fungi areoften found growing on the surface of damp wood and can be confused with decayfungi. Although these organisms may discolor the wood, they do not break downwood fibers and thus do not weaken its structure. However, these organismsindicate that moisture is present and that decay will likely proceed if awood-rotting fungus becomes established in the wood.

Life Cycle & Habits

Decay fungi are living organisms which send minute threads called"hyphae" through damp wood, taking their food from the wood as theygrow. Gradually, the wood is decomposed and its strength is lost. Such damageis often inconspicuous until its final stages, and in a few instanceshomeowners have suddenly found floors breaking through or doors falling fromtheir hinges due to wood rot. When previously dry wood is placed in contactwith moist soil, or in a location where it is subject to condensation (such asunventilated crawl space), it is likely that wood decay problems will occur.Rain leaks, faulty plumbing and leaky downspouts also are common sources ofmoisture. In some instances, water can be transported to the site of decaythrough strands or "rhizomorphs" of the decay fungi.Water-transporting strands may extend for thirty or more feet across brick,concrete or similar materials. The wood decay fungus, Serpula lacrimans,has been known to transport water up three stories to an area where decay isoccurring. Poria incrassata is also capable of transportingwater long distances. However, these fungi are exceptions to the rule. Mostwood-rotting fungi must have a direct supply of water at the site of decay.Thus the term "dry-rot," sometimes applied to decay in wood structures,is erroneous.

Control Measures

Prevention

1. If the decay hazard ishigh, select the heartwood of decay-resistant species or use wood properlytreated with a good preservative. Conifers from which decay-resistantlumber is produced include Pacific yew, juniper, redwood, baldcypress, andwestern red cedar. Durable hardwood species include osage orange, blacklocust, red mulberry, catalpa and black walnut.
2. Build on awell-drained site. Use proper grading to prevent water from seeping underthe house. Install effective drain tile, roof overhang, gutters, anddownspouts. Place no untreated wood within 18 inches of the ground.
3. Provide adequate crossventilation beneath buildings to eliminate dead air pockets. Install twosquare feet of opening for 25 linear feet of wall. Dense bushes or otherplants should not be placed in front of these ventilators.
4. Install a vaporbarrier on the soil surface to cause soil moisture to condense on thebarrier and return to the soil rather than condensing on the floor andabove joists. Satisfactory barriers can be made by covering the soil withasphalt roofing paper or polyethylene sheets.

Repair of Decayed Buildings

First determine the source of moisture and remove it. If adequateventilation and soil drainage are provided and all contacts of untreated woodwith the soil or moist concrete or masonry are broken, decayed wood will dryout and further decay will be stopped. When making replacements, cut out atleast one foot beyond the rotten area. Avoid placing new lumber in contact withold, decayed wood. Replacement lumber should be treated before installation.Remodel to provide more ventilation and better design rather than simplyreplacing decayed lumber.

Chemical Treatment

Disodium octaborate tetrahydrate or sodium borate with brand namesof Bora-Care®, Guardian®, Jecta®, Shell-Guard®, Tim-bor® and Impel® rods arelabelled for protection and treatment of wood and wood-foam compositestructural components against decay fungi and wood destroying insects. Forexample, remedial control of organisms attacking wood, apply a 15 percent ortwo applications of 10 percent aqueous solution of Tim-bor® 98 percent(1-lb/gallon solution) or Bora-Care® diluted 1:1 or 2:1 with water. Thesolution may be applied by brush or spray until the surface is thoroughlywetted (approximately five gallons per 1,000 square foot). An application mayalso be made by drilling, and then injecting the solution directly into theinfested area. Inject a sufficient amount of solution to cause runoff from exitholes drilled into the infested wood.

Also one may apply Tim-bor® dust to infested wood by drill andinjection directly into galleries (a passage or tunnel made in wood by aninsect); or dust wood surfaces and wall voids at a rate of two to three poundsper 100 square foot.

Shell-Guard® and Guardian® are labeled for protection andtreatment against decay fungi and wood destroying insects. These two productsare formulated with propylene and polyethylene glycols, making them doubly safeto use. Since these products are borate based, the protection is permanentafter application. Guardian® is the highest concentration available in aformulated borate product. It can be directly injected into holes to providefast penetration into problem areas. Rapid diffusion is assured by theformulated carriers. Holes can be sealed to match the original finish of thewood.

Shellguard® is a liquid, labeled for topical application. Becauseof its concentration, multiple applications are unnecessary. Like Guardian®,one application is all that is required. Both of these products are labeled forhome use, and can be easily and safely applied by the homeowner.

Another formulation known as Impel rods is molded from highlyconcentrated water-diffusible boron into a solid tube resembling glass inappearance. These rods are internationally recognized as an effectivepreservative and deterrent to rot. Unlike fumigants and sprayed or brushed onpreservatives, Impel Rods are inserted through small holes strategicallydrilled into wood where signs of rot are evident or in high-risk, rot-proneareas. The holes are sealed and may be finished to match the wood's originalappearance. Rods are odorless, EPA registered, do not stain wood and areavailable in various sizes to fit virtually any application from heavy timbersand posts to millwork and door frames. However, where damage threatens thestructure integrity of wood, the wood should be replaced.

Whenever the moisture content of wood is high enough to sustainrot, Impel Rods® slowly dissolve, spreading the active borate protection intothe area surrounding the rod. When the wood dries, the preservative remains inthe wood. As the cycle is repeated, the preservative builds up as an effectivedeterrent to rot.

In the past, pentachlorophenol (Penta®) and copper naphthenate wasused as a stop gap measure. (These chemicals had offensive smells and were notenvironmentally safe.) Now with a growing environmental concern, variousformulations of sodium borate do not pose a serious threat. A key valve is theabsence of offensive smells sometimes associated with other common treatmentmethods. Also, existing moisture in the wood enhances chemical penetration.

Carbon Monoxide

What is carbon monoxide?

Carbon monoxide, or CO, is a poisonous gas thatcannot be seen or smelled and can kill a person in minutes. Carbon monoxide canquickly build up to unsafe levels in enclosed or semi-enclosed areas.

What are some common sources of carbonmonoxide?

Carbon monoxide is produced by incompletecombustion from cars and trucks, small gasoline power equipment like weedtrimmers and chain saws, boat engines, gas and camp stoves, lanterns, burningcharcoal and wood, and gas ranges, ovens, or furnaces. Tobacco smoke is asignificant source of carbon monoxide in homes with smokers.

What are the symptoms of carbonmonoxide poisoning?

Common symptoms are headache, dizziness, fatigue,weakness, confusion, and nausea. Breathing in high levels of carbon monoxidecan cause loss of consciousness and death. People who are sleeping can die fromcarbon monoxide poisoning before ever knowing they are being exposed to thegas.

Who is at risk from carbon monoxidepoisoning?

All people and animals are at risk for carbonmonoxide poisoning. Certain groups, such as unborn babies, infants, and peoplewith chronic heart disease, anemia, or respiratory problems, are more easilyaffected by carbon monoxide poisoning.

What should be done if you suspectsomeone has carbon monoxide poisoning?

• Immediatelygo outside to get fresh air. Call 911.
• If someone isunconscious and cannot leave, open windows and doors to bring in freshair. Turn off the source of carbon monoxide. Call 911.

Should a carbon monoxide detector beinstalled in my home?

Yes, these detectors are similar to smoke alarmsand can warn you when carbon monoxide levels become unsafe. If the alarm goesoff, evacuate the building and call 911. Follow the carbon monoxide detectorinstructions for routine maintenance, including regular replacement ofbatteries. If the carbon monoxide detector is wired to the electrical supply,make sure it has back-up batteries for when the electricity is off.

How do I prevent carbon monoxidepoisoning during a power outage?

• Never use acharcoal or gas grill in an enclosed space, such as inside your home,garage, or in a tent or camper.
• Don't burncharcoal in your fireplace. A charcoal fire will not create a chimneydraft strong enough to push the carbon monoxide to the outside.
• Never use agenerator inside your home, garage, carport, basement, or near an outsidewindow, door, or vent. Generators should be at least 15 feet away frombuildings. Even at 15 feet away, air flow patterns could still blow carbonmonoxide into homes through attic vents, windows, or doors, so it's veryimportant to have a working carbon monoxide detector inside the home. Neveruse a gas range or gas oven to heat your home.
• Never sleepin a room while using an unvented gas or kerosene heater.

How can I prevent carbon monoxidepoisoning from vehicles and other equipment?

• Never run avehicle in a garage, even when the garage door is open.
• Have amechanic check the exhaust system of your car every year. A small leak inyour car's exhaust system can lead to a buildup of carbon monoxide insidethe car.
• Don't allowpeople to travel inside truck canopies and campers. Vehicle exhaust can bedrawn into the covered or enclosed area of canopies and campers.
• Boatersshould be aware of exhaust "back drafting" into the boat'scabin, cockpit, or deck. Make sure people swim and play away from theengine exhaust of the boat. Don't “teak surf” or hang onto and ride on theswim platform on the back of boats.
• Never usegasoline powered equipment indoors or in poorly ventilated areas.

How can I prevent carbon monoxide poisoningfrom my home appliances?

• Have oil andgas appliances and fireplaces, as well as wood stoves, checked every yearby a trained professional.
• Make surechimneys and flues are routinely checked and cleaned. Never burn anythingin a stove or fireplace that isn't vented.
• Don't useunvented fueled heaters.
• If yoususpect a gas leak, leave your home immediately, call 911, and contactyour gas company. Don't go back into the home until the problem has beenresolved.

What is asbestos?

Asbestos, a naturally occurring mineral fiber, wasonce widely used in building materials and products to strengthen them andprovide heat insulation and fire resistance. It is still used in some productstoday. When it is intact and undisturbed, asbestos-containing materialsgenerally do not pose a health risk. If asbestos-containing materials aredamaged, disturbed, or deteriorate over time, there is a health risk becausethe microscopic fibers can be inhaled into the lungs.

How can asbestos affect my health?

Breathing asbestos fibers can lead to an increasedrisk of three types of disease - lung cancer, mesothelioma, and asbestosis.Symptoms of these diseases do not usually appear until 20 to 30 years after thefirst exposure to asbestos.

Most people exposed to small amounts of asbestos,as we all are in our daily lives, don't develop serious health problems. If youare concerned about possible exposure to asbestos, contact your healthcare provider.

Where asbestos could be found in myhome?

While most products made today don't containasbestos, there are many which still might. Testing may be the only way to knowif a product contains asbestos. The following are examples of where asbestoshazards may be found in the home.

• Some roofingmaterials contain asbestos.
• Some sidingshingles are made of cement asbestos board (CAB).
• Houses builtbetween 1930 and the 1970s may have asbestos as insulation in the walls orin the attic.
• Attic andwall insulation produced using vermiculite ore, particularly ore thatoriginated from a Libby, Montana mine and sold under the name"Zonolite Attic Insulation" may contain asbestos fibers.Vermiculite was mined in Libby between 1923 and 1990. This insulation wasused in millions of homes and businesses nationwide.
• Asbestos maybe present in textured paint, popcorn ceilings, sheetrock taping compound,and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use wasbanned in 1977.
• Artificialashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos.
• Olderproducts such as stove-top pads may have some asbestos compounds.
• Walls andfloors around wood burning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper,millboard, or CAB.
• Some vinylfloor tiles and adhesives and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring(linoleum) contain asbestos.
• Hot water andsteam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material orcovered with an asbestos blanket or tape.
• Oil and coalfurnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.

How do I identify materials thatcontain asbestos?

Unless it is labeled, you can't tell whethermaterial contains asbestos simply by looking at it. If in doubt, treat thematerial as if it contains asbestos or have it sampled and analyzed by aqualified professional. Taking samples yourself is not recommended. Aprofessional should take samples for analysis, since a professional knows whatto look for, and because there may be an increased health risk if fibers arereleased. If done incorrectly, sampling can be more hazardous than leaving thematerial alone. Material that is in good condition and will not be disturbed(by remodeling, for example) should be left alone. Only material that isdamaged or will be disturbed should be sampled.

What should be done about asbestos inmy home?

If the asbestos material is in good shape and willnot be disturbed, it's likely that nothing needs to be done. Monitor thematerial for deterioration and prevent the material from getting damaged ordisturbed. If asbestos material is more than slightly damaged, or if you aregoing to make changes in your home that might disturb it, repair or removal bya professional is recommended.

Repair usually involves either sealingor covering asbestos material.

• Sealing(encapsulation) involves treating the material with a sealant that eitherbinds the asbestos fibers together or coats the material so fibers are notreleased. Pipe, furnace and boiler insulation can sometimes be repairedthis way. This should be done only by a professional trained to handleasbestos safely.
• Covering(enclosure) involves placing something over or around the material thatcontains asbestos to prevent release of fibers. Exposed insulated pipingmay be covered with a protective wrap or jacket.

Removal may be required when remodelingor making major changes to your home, or when asbestos material is damaged andcannot be repaired. Removal is usually more expensive than repair.

Federal and state laws govern asbestos removal anddisposal.

Can I clean up the asbestos myself?

If you are the homeowner and the home is not usedfor commercial purposes you can clean it up yourself. You must follow federaland state laws. The Department of Ecology administers the Asbestos NationalEmissions Standards for Hazardous Air Pollutants (NESHAP) and requiresnotification before demolishing or renovating facilities with asbestoscontaining materials. In areas of the state with a Clean Air Agency, theresponsibility is delegated to them.

Before beginning any demolition or remodel project,you must check for asbestos and follow the specific guidelines for properlyidentifying, handling, removing, and disposing of any asbestos that might bedisturbed.

Pests can damage plants and trees in gardens or damage homes or other structures. They can also impact the health of people and their pets. Pests may spread pathogens that can cause serious, life-altering,and even fatal disease. Some diseases transmitted by pests include West Nile virus spread by mosquitoes, Lyme disease by ticks, and hantavirus by deer mice.Other pests bite or sting triggering allergic reactions, which for some people can be life-threatening. Learn how to control and prevent health risks associated with the following pests.

Biting Flies

Deer and horse flies are well known for buzzing relentlessly around their target, landing stealthily on exposed skin, and delivering a painful bite. Their bite can itch for days and scratching may lead to infection. These flies are active during the day and are especially common around ponds, streams, marshes, and lakes. They are capable of transmitting tularemia to people, a bacterial disease that flies can pick up from wild animals. In addition, for some people bites can cause severe allergic reactions.

Protection

To prevent fly bites:

• Avoid placeswhere flies are most active, particularly at dawn and dusk.
• Cover exposedskin by wearing light-colored, long sleeved shirts, pants and hats.
• Considerusing a repellent labeled for biting fly protection. Always follow labelinstructions carefully.
• Fix windowand door screens.
• Clean uppiles of rubbish and decaying hay, straw, and other vegetation thatattract flies.

Treatment

A fly bites injecting saliva into the skin. It isthis saliva that causes reactions such as localized swelling, itchiness, andmild redness at the bite site. In sensitive individuals, the fly's salvia cantrigger life-threatening allergic reactions.

• Wash the bitesite thoroughly with soap and water.
• Take anantihistamine or apply creams to reduce itching if necessary;
• Watch forsymptoms of infection over the next several days. Symptoms includeincreasing redness, swelling, or pain.

Allergic Reactions

Call 9-1-1 if any of these signs occur:

• Troublebreathing, wheezing, or shortness of breath.
• Swellinganywhere on the face or in the mouth.
• Throattightness or difficulty swallowing.
• Feeling faintor dizziness.
• Turning blue.

Termites

Suspecting you may have termites can bealarming. But if you know the signs of a termite infestation, the faster you'llbe able to rid your home of these unwanted pests.

New termite infestations begin whenwinged termites swarm from their nests in early spring in search of a newcolony. These termites eventually lose their wings, pair up with a mate andbegin digging in the soil for a new home. Most winged termites cannot surviveindoors, but if you do find one inside, chances are high that non-wingedtermites are invading your home.

The3 Most Common Signs of a Termite Infestation

Sign #1: Winged Termite Sighting 
Winged termites are attracted to light, so you'll often find them near indooror outdoor light fixtures, or clinging to screens or windows. They may alsoemerge from the base of foundation walls, porches or patios, particularly ifwood is present. Winged termites are most active during the months of March toMay, and closely resemble flying ants. If you see a winged termite in yourhome, call for termite treatment services immediately.

Sign #2: Earthen Tubes 
If your infestation has progressed to include a colony of feeding active termites;mud tubes will often appear on the sides of foundations walls and supportstructures to your home. You may also find them in the crevices of concretehomes, in ceilings along the contours of a room, or in open spaces where theyhave no other direct path to their food source the wood in your home. Thesetubes are roughly a centimeter or two in diameter and consist mostly of driedmud and termite droppings. Destroying them will not eliminate the termites fromyour home, and finding one empty usually means the termites are simply foragingin another part of the tube, or have vacated it for another part of your home.It's best to call a termite control professional at this point.

Sign #3: Wood Destruction 

The third and most common sign of termite infestations is wood damage. Termiteswill hollow out wood along the grain leaving small particles of mud or soil inthe feeding gallery. The wood will be rippled and appear sunken in places, evenif the outer surface appears untouched. This wood will be weak and may be easyto ply away or break through.

Termites can also feed undetected onyour home for years, making periodic inspections a vital step in ensuring yourhome's health. Call Us today for your FREE home inspection and quote.

Bed Bugs

Susan C. Jones, Ph.D., 
Assistant Professor of Entomology
Extension Specialist, Household & Structural Pests

Bed bugs are parasites that preferentially feed on humans. Ifpeople aren't available, they instead will feed on other warm-blooded animals,including birds, rodents, bats, and pets.

Bed bugs have been documented as pests since the 17th century.They were introduced into our country by the early colonists. Bed bugs werecommon in the United States prior to World War II, after which time widespreaduse of synthetic insecticides such as DDT greatly reduced their numbers.Improvements in household and personal cleanliness as well as increasedregulation of the used furniture market also likely contributed to theirreduced pest status.

In the past decade, bed bugs have begun making a comeback acrossthe United States, although they are not considered to be a major pest. Thewidespread use of baits rather than insecticide sprays for ant and cockroachcontrol is a factor that has been implicated in their return. Bed bugs areblood feeders that do not feed on ant and cockroach baits. 

International traveland commerce are thought to facilitate the spread of these insect hitchhikers,because eggs, young, and adult bed bugs are readily transported in luggage,clothing, bedding, and furniture. Bed bugs can infest airplanes, ships, trains,and buses. Bed bugs are most frequently found in dwellings with a high rate ofoccupant turnover, such as hotels, motels, hostels, dormitories, shelters,apartment complexes, tenements, and prisons. Such infestations usually are nota reflection of poor hygiene or bad housekeeping.

Distribution

Bed bugs are fairly cosmopolitan. Cimex lectularius ismost frequently found in the northern temperate climates of North America,Europe, and Central Asia, although it occurs sporadically in southern temperateregions. The tropical bed bug, C. hemipterus, is adapted forsemitropical to tropical climates and is widespread in the warmer areas ofAfrica, Asia, and the tropics of North America and South America. In the UnitedStates, C. hemipterus occurs in Florida.

Identification

Adult bed bugs are brown to reddish-brown, oval-shaped, flattened,and about 3/16 to 1/5 inch long. Their flat shape enables them to readily hidein cracks and crevices. The body becomes more elongate, swollen, and dark redafter a blood meal. Bed bugs have a beaklike piercing-sucking mouthpart system.The adults have small, stubby, nonfunctional wing pads. Newly hatched nymphsare nearly colorless, becoming brownish as they mature. Nymphs have the generalappearance of adults. Eggs are white and about 1/32 inch long.

Bed bugs superficially resemble a number of closely relatedinsects (family Cimicidae), such as bat bugs (Cimex adjunctus), chimneyswift bugs (Cimexopsis spp.), and swallow bugs (Oeciacus spp.).A microscope is needed to examine the insect for distinguishingcharacteristics, which often requires the skills of an entomologist. In Ohio,bat bugs are far more common than bed bugs.

Life Cycle

Female bed bugs lay from one to twelve eggs per day, and the eggsare deposited on rough surfaces or in crack and crevices. The eggs are coatedwith a sticky substance so they adhere to the substrate. Eggs hatch in 6 to 17days, and nymphs can immediately begin to feed. They require a blood meal inorder to molt. Bed bugs reach maturity after five molts. Developmental time(egg to adult) is affected by temperature and takes about 21 days at 86° F to120 days at 65° F. The nymphal period is greatly prolonged when food is scarce.Nymphs and adults can live for several months without food. The adult'slifespan may encompass 12-18 months. Three or more generations can occur eachyear.

Habits

Bed bugs are fast moving insects that are nocturnal blood-feeders.They feed mostly at night when their host is asleep. After using their sharpbeak to pierce the skin of a host, they inject a salivary fluid containing ananticoagulant that helps them obtain blood. Nymphs may become engorged withblood within three minutes, whereas a full-grown bed bug usually feeds for tento fifteen minutes. They then crawl away to a hiding place to digest the meal.When hungry, bed bugs again search for a host.

Bed bugs hide during the day in dark, protected sites. They seemto prefer fabric, wood, and paper surfaces. They usually occur in fairly closeproximity to the host, although they can travel far distances. Bed bugsinitially can be found about tufts, seams, and folds of mattresses, laterspreading to crevices in the bedstead. In heavier infestations, they also mayoccupy hiding places farther from the bed. They may hide in window and doorframes, electrical boxes, floor cracks, baseboards, furniture, and under thetack board of wall-to-wall carpeting. Bed bugs often crawl upward to hide inpictures, wall hangings, drapery pleats, loosened wallpaper, cracks in plaster,and ceiling moldings.

Injury

The bite is painless. The salivary fluid injected by bed bugstypically causes the skin to become irritated and inflamed, althoughindividuals can differ in their sensitivity. A small, hard, swollen, white weltmay develop at the site of each bite. This is accompanied by severe itchingthat lasts for several hours to days. Scratching may cause the welts to becomeinfected. The amount of blood loss due to bed bug feeding typically does notadversely affect the host.

Rows of three or so welts on exposed skin are characteristic signsof bed bugs. Welts do not have a red spot in the center such as ischaracteristic of flea bites.

Some individuals respond to bed bug infestations with anxiety,stress, and insomnia. Bed bugs are not known to transmit disease.

Tell-tale Signs

A bed bug infestation can be recognized by blood stains fromcrushed bugs or by rusty (sometimes dark) spots of excrement on sheets andmattresses, bed clothes, and walls. Fecal spots, eggshells, and shed skins maybe found in the vicinity of their hiding places. An offensive, sweet, mustyodor from their scent glands may be detected when bed bug infestations aresevere.

Control Measures

A critical first step is to correctly identify the blood-feedingpest, as this determines which management tactics to adopt that take intoaccount specific bug biology and habits. For example, if the blood-feeder is abat bug rather than a bed bug, a different management approach is needed.

Control of bed bugs is best achieved by following an integratedpest management (IPM) approach that involves multiple tactics, such aspreventive measures, sanitation, and chemicals applied to targeted sites.Severe infestations usually are best handled by a licensed pest managementprofessional.

Prevention

Do not bring infested items into one's home. It is important tocarefully inspect clothing and baggage of travelers, being on the lookout forbed bugs and their tell-tale fecal spots. Also, inspect secondhand beds,bedding, and furniture. Caulk cracks and crevices in the building exterior andalso repair or screen openings to exclude birds, bats, and rodents that canserve as alternate hosts for bed bugs.

Inspection

A thorough inspection of the premises to locate bed bugs and theirharborage sites is necessary so that cleaning efforts and insecticidetreatments can be focused. Inspection efforts should concentrate on themattress, box springs, and bed frame, as well as crack and crevices that thebed bugs may hide in during the day or when digesting a blood meal. The lattersites include window and door frames, floor cracks, carpet tack boards,baseboards, electrical boxes, furniture, pictures, wall hangings, drapery pleats,loosened wallpaper, cracks in plaster, and ceiling moldings. Determine whetherbirds or rodents are nesting on or near the house.

In hotels, apartments, and other multiple-type dwellings, it isadvisable to also inspect adjoining units since bed bugs can travel longdistances.

Sanitation

Sanitation measures include frequently vacuuming the mattress andpremises, laundering bedding and clothing in hot water, and cleaning andsanitizing dwellings. After vacuuming, immediately place the vacuum cleaner bagin a plastic bag, seal tightly, and discard in a container outdoors-thisprevents captured bed bugs from escaping into the home. A stiff brush can beused to scrub the mattress seams to dislodge bed bugs and eggs. Discarding themattress is another option, although a new mattress can quickly become infestedif bed bugs are still on the premises. Steam cleaning of mattresses generallyis not recommended because it is difficult to get rid of excess moisture, whichcan lead to problems with mold, mildew, house dust mites, etc.

Repair cracks in plaster and glue down loosened wallpaper toeliminate bed bug harborage sites. Remove and destroy wild animal roosts andnests when possible.

Trapping

After the mattress is vacuumed or scrubbed, it can be enclosed ina zippered mattress cover such as that used for house dust mites. Any bed bugsremaining on the mattress will be trapped inside the cover. Leave the cover inplace for a year or so since bed bugs can live for a long time without a bloodmeal.

Sticky traps or glue boards may be used to capture bed bugs thatwander about. However, the effectiveness of these traps is not well documented.

Insecticides

Residual insecticides (usually pyrethroids) are applied as spottreatments to cracks and crevices where bed bugs are hiding. Increasedpenetration of the insecticide into cracks and crevices can be achieved ifaccumulated dirt and debris are first removed using a vacuum cleaner. Avoid Using highly repellent formulations, which cause bed bugs to scatter to manyplaces. Dust formulations may be used to treat wall voids and attics. Repeatinsecticide applications if bed bugs are present two weeks after the initialtreatment since it is difficult to find all hiding places and hidden eggs mayhave hatched.

Do not use any insecticide on a mattress unless the product labelspecifically mentions such use. Note that very few insecticides are labeled foruse on mattresses. If using an appropriately labeled insecticide on a mattress,take measures to minimize pesticide exposure to occupants. Apply theinsecticide as a light mist to the entire mattress, opening seams, tufts, andfolds to allow the chemical to penetrate into these hiding areas. Allow thetreated surface to completely dry before use. Do not sleep directly on atreated mattress; be sure bed linens are in place. Do not treat mattresses ofinfants or ill people. Alternatives to using an insecticide on a mattress arediscussed in the 'Sanitation' and 'Trapping' sections.

No insecticides are labeled for use on bedding or linens. Theseitems should be dry cleaned or laundered in hot water and dried using the"hot" setting.

Termite Control

Susan C. Jones, Ph.D.
Assistant Professor of Entomology
Extension Specialist, Household & Structural Pests

Subterranean termitesare the most common and economically important wood-destroying organisms in theUnited States. Termites feed on materials that contain cellulose, primarilydead wood and wood by-products. Subterranean termites are closely associatedwith the soil habitat where they excavate a network of tunnels through the soilto reach water and food. These termites need moisture to survive.

Biology

Subterranean termitesare social insects that live in colonies that may contain hundreds of thousandsof individuals. Termite colony members are dispersed throughout the soil andcan extend underground tunnels tens to hundreds of feet to reach feeding sites.

Each termite colonycontains three forms or castes, which are the workers, soldiers, andreproductives. These castes are physically distinct and perform different tasksin the termite society.

Workers are about 1/8inch long and are blind, wingless, soft-bodied, creamy white to grayish-whitewith a round head. Workers are the most numerous individuals in a termitecolony, and they are the termite caste that actually eats the wood. Thesesterile individuals forage for food and water, construct and repair sheltertubes, feed and groom other termites, care for eggs and young, and participatein colony defense.

Soldiers are alsowingless and resemble workers except that they have a large, rectangular,yellowish-brown head with large mandibles (jaws). The soldiers’ primaryfunction is colony defense.

Male and femalereproductives can be winged (primary) or wingless (neotenic). Each can producenew offspring. Winged primary reproductives are called alates or swarmers.However, they shed their wings soon after flight. Their body color varies byspecies from black to yellow-brown. The eastern subterranean termite, Reticulitermesflavipes, is the most common termite in Ohio and its alates are black andabout 0.4 inch long, with pale or grayish, translucent wings. A pair of primaryreproductives that heads a colony is called the king and queen. Neotenicreproductives often serve as replacements if something happens to the king andqueen. Neotenic reproductives are generally yellow or mottled black and thefemale’s abdomen may be distended due to developing eggs.

Detection of Termites

It is important for homeowners to recognize the signs of asubterranean termite infestation. Subterranean termites may be detected by thesudden emergence of winged termites (alates or swarmers), or by the presence ofmud tubes and wood damage.

Winged Termites

Large numbers of wingedtermites swarming from wood or the soil often are the first obvious sign of anearby termite colony. Swarming occurs in mature colonies that typicallycontain at least several thousand termites. A "swarm" is a group of adultmale and female reproductives that leave their colony in an attempt to pair andinitiate new colonies.

Alate emergence isstimulated when temperature and moisture conditions are favorable, usually onwarm days following rainfall. In Ohio, swarming typically occurs during daytimein the spring (March, April, and May), but swarms can occur indoors duringother months. However, swarming occurs during a brief period (typically lessthan an hour), and alates quickly shed their wings. Winged termites areattracted to light, and their shed wings in window sills, cobwebs, or on othersurfaces often may be the only evidence that a swarm occurred indoors. Thepresence of winged termites or their shed wings inside a home should be awarning of a termite infestation.

Termite swarmers havestraight, bead-like antennae; a thick waist; and two pair of long, equal-lengthwings that break off easily. Winged termites can be differentiated from wingedants, which have elbowed antennae, a constricted waist, and two pair of unequal-lengthwings (forewings are larger than hind wings) that are not easily detached. Antsalso generally are harder-bodied than termites.

Mud Tubes

Other signs of termitepresence include mud tubes and mud protruding from cracks between boards andbeams. Subterranean termites transport soil and water above ground to constructearthen runways (shelter tubes) that allow them to tunnel across exposed areasto reach wood. Shelter tubes protect them from the drying effects of air andfrom natural enemies, such as ants. These tubes usually are about 1/4 to 1 inchwide, and termites use them as passageways between the soil and wood. Todetermine if an infestation is active, shelter tubes should be broken orscraped away and then monitored to determine whether the termites repair themor construct new ones. Houses should be inspected annually for mud tubes.

Wood Damage

Termite damage to thewood’s surface often is not evident because termites excavate galleries withinmaterials as they feed. Wood attacked by subterranean termites generally has ahoneycombed appearance because termites feed along the grain on the softerspring growth wood. Their excavations in wood often are packed with soil, andfecal spotting is evident. When inspecting for termites, it is useful to probewood with a knife or flat blade screwdriver to detect areas that have beenhollowed. Severely damaged wood may have a hollow sound when it is tapped.Subterranean termites do not reduce wood to a powdery mass, and they do notcreate wood particles or pellets, as do many other wood-boring insects.

Prevention

Preventive practices area critical aspect of termite management. Prevention of subterranean termiteinfestation of wooden structures centers upon disrupting their ability tolocate moisture, food (wood), and shelter.

Avoid moistureaccumulation near the foundation, which provides water needed for termitesurvival. Divert water away from the foundation with properly functioningdownspouts, gutters, and splash blocks. Soil needs to be graded or sloped awayfrom the foundation in order for surface water to drain away from the building.

Cellulose (wood, mulch,paper, etc.) that is in contact with soil provides termites with ready andunobservable access to food. It is very important to eliminate any contactbetween the wooden parts of the house foundation and the soil. Maintain atleast 6 inches between the soil and porch steps, latticework  door or windowframes, etc. Never stack or store firewood, lumber, newspapers, or other woodproducts against the foundation or within the crawl space. Prevent trellises,vines, etc. from touching the house. Before and during construction, never burywood scraps or waste lumber in the backfill, especially near the building. Besure to remove wooden or celotex form boards, grade stakes, etc. used duringconstruction. Remove old tree stumps and roots around and beneath the building.Avoid or minimize use of wood mulch next to the foundation.

Control Measures

Termitesfeed slowly so there is no need to panic if they are discovered in one’s home.A few weeks or months may be needed to decide on a course of treatment, whichtypically requires employing a professional pest management firm. Homeownersseldom have the experience, availability of pesticides, and equipment needed toperform the job effectively. Consider getting at least three estimates beforesigning a contract for control measures, and be cautious of price quotes thatare substantially lower or higher than the others. Prices for inspection,treatment estimates, and conditions of warranties often vary considerably. Aguarantee is no better than the firm who presents it. It is important to takeyour time to select a reputable pest management firm. Deal only with licensed,certified pest management firms having an established place of business and agood professional reputation.

Soil BarrierTermiticides

Conventional soiltreatments rely on creating a chemical barrier in the soil that is toxic totermites contacting it. Many also have repellent characteristics and termitesavoid treated soil. To achieve termite control for long periods of time, suchtermiticides must be applied as a continuous barrier in the soil next to andunder the foundation. If there are untreated gaps in the soil, termites maycircumvent the chemical treatment. Hence, such treatments duringpreconstruction can provide for more uniform coverage. Once a home isconstructed, the chemical has to be injected through drill holes and trenchingaround the foundation, which can result in less accurate coverage. Effectivetermite control usually requires specialized equipment and often 150 or moregallons of prepared termiticide solution per house, depending on size,basement, etc.

Termiticides that act bycreating a chemical barrier in the soil include bifenthrin (Talstar®), cypermethrin(Demon®, Prevail®), and permethrin (Dragnet®, Prelude®). Chlorpyrifos(Dursban®) can be used only during preconstruction and only until December 31,2005.

In reference to"spot treatments only" using chemical barrier termiticides only inareas of the house where termites are seen, most pest management firms willrefuse such treatments or will not guarantee such treatments. The reason isthat termites have a very high probability of finding other untreated points ofentry into the structure. Localized spot treatments are considered risky exceptin re-treatment situations.

Treated-Zone Termiticides

The most recenttermiticides to be marketed are non-repellent to termites, but show delayedtoxicity as termites forage through treated soil, which they do not avoid. Astermites penetrate the "treated zone," they contact the activeingredient, which causes delayed mortality and also possibly allows thetermites to be overcome by lethal microbes. Furthermore, the toxicant isthought to be passed to nestmates through grooming activities and social foodexchange (trophallaxis). Control usually is achieved within 3 months. As withsoil barrier termiticides, specialized application equipment and large volumesof chemical solution are needed.

Non-repellent termiticidesinclude fipronil (Termidor®), imidacloprid (Premise®), and chlorfenapyr(Phantom®).

Baits

Bait technology useswood or a cellulose matrix favored by termites that is impregnated with aslow-acting toxic chemical. Termite workers feed upon the bait and transfer itby grooming or trophallaxis to other colony members, eventually reducing oreliminating the entire colony. Termites are not site-specific, but rather, theyforage among various food sites, which results in the bait being encountered bymany colony members. The toxicant necessarily is slow acting because termitestend to avoid sites where sick and dead termites accumulate.

Typically, in-groundstations are inserted in the soil next to the structure and near known orsuspected sites of termite activity. In-ground stations often initially containuntreated wood that serves as a monitoring device. The monitoring wood isreplaced with the toxicant once termites have been detected feeding on it. Inaddition, aboveground stations may be installed inside or on the structure inthe vicinity of damaged wood and shelter tubes. Aboveground stations initiallycontain bait.

It is very importantthat bait systems are properly installed and diligently serviced. Monthlyinspections of a baiting system usually are necessary, except during inclementwinter weather. Successful termite baiting necessitates propermonitoring and maintenance of the stations.

Baits work much moreslowly than soil termiticides, and the homeowner should be aware of thepossibility of a lengthy baiting process. Several months or more may elapsebefore the termites locate stations, then termites must feed on sufficientamounts of the toxicant.

An often-cited advantageof termite baits is that they are "environmentally-friendly" becausethey use very small quantities of chemical and decrease the potential forenvironmental contamination. In addition, bait application causes littledisruptive noise and disturbance compared to soil treatments. Furthermore,baits can be used in structures with wells or cisterns, sub-slab heating ducts,and other features that may preclude a soil treatment. Baits are often used insensitive environments.

A number of baits havebeen marketed to control termites. Bait products that are available forlicensed pest management professionals include the Sentricon® Termite Colony EliminationSystem (hexaflumuron [Recruit® II bait] or noviflumuron [Recruit® III bait]),FirstLine® Termite Defense System (sulfluramid), Exterra® Termite Interceptionand Baiting System (diflubenzuron [Labyrinth® bait]), Subterfuge® Termite Bait(hydramethylnon), and Outpost® Termite Bait Response (diflubenzuron). Not allof these bait systems are equally effective. It is advisable to review theindependent research that has been conducted on a particular bait, as someproducts have been evaluated much more rigorously than others.

Spectracide Terminate®(sulfluramid) and Termirid® 613 (borate) can be purchased by homeowners.However, Terminate® is not recommended as sole protection against termites, and an active infestation should be treated by a professional. Termirid® can be used to reduce subterranean termite populations. Little or no research has been conducted to verify the effectiveness of these products, particularly when used by homeowners.

Some alternate termite controls include:

Treated Wood

Borates (disodiumoctaborate tetrahydrate [Tim-bor®, Bora-Care®, Jecta®], Impel®) andpressure-treatments (creosote, chromated copper arsenate [CCA]) protect woodagainst termites and wood-decay fungi. However, even creosote-treated railroadties and telephone poles, and CCA-treated wood, over time, can be subject totermite attack. Termites can build mud tubes over treated surfaces.Furthermore, they can gain entry through cut and cracked ends or areas wherethe chemical has not sufficiently penetrated.

Wood treatments areprimarily used to supplement other termite control measures, because termitesare able to attack untreated wood in other areas of the structure. It isadvisable to use pressure-treated wood in situations where wood is in directcontact with soil or exposed to rainfall. Borates are fairly soluble in water,so borate-treated wood should be protected from constant rewetting.

Borates may be appliedto wood by homeowners. As of 1 January 2004, CCA-treated wood is no longeravailable for use in most residential settings because of concerns regardingits arsenic content.

Physical Barriers

Physical barriers areparticularly appropriate during the preconstruction phase to provide protectionof the structure from subterranean termites. One such physical barrier isstainless-steel wire mesh (TermiMesh®) that is fitted around pipes, posts, orfoundations. The newest physical barrier, Impasse® Termite System, contains aliquid termiticide (lambda-cyhalothrin) locked in between two layers of heavyplastic that is installed before the concrete slab is poured. It issupplemented with Impasse® Termite Blocker, which uses special fittings aroundplumbing and electrical pipes and conduits.

Biological Control Agents

Certain species of parasitic round worms (nematodes) will infest and kill termites and other soil insects. They have been promoted and marketed by a few companies. Although effective in the laboratory, control is often quite variable under field conditions  Limited success with nematode treatments may be attributed to the ability of termites to recognize and wall-off infected individuals, hence limiting the spread of nematodes throughout the colony. Furthermore, soil moisture and soil type appear to limit the nematode’s ability to move in the soil and locate termites.

A fungus Metarhiziumanisopliae (Bio-Blast®) is a biological termiticide that requires special application and handling techniques. It is labeled for above ground application to termite infestations in structures, but it is not labeled for application to the soil. Spray effectiveness is enhanced when applied to many foraging termites because infected termites can pass the fungus to nestmates.However, it is difficult to infect a large enough number of termites for the infection to spread throughout the colony. Furthermore, it provides no long-lasting residual activity, and the fungal spores die with the deadtermites. Insufficient research has been conducted to indicate whether this isan effective method for controlling termites.

Rodents

Rodents such as mice and rats can carry harmfuldiseases. Diseases from rodents can be spread to people through bite wounds,consuming contaminated food or water, or inhaling germs that may be present inrodent urine or droppings that have been stirred into the air. People can alsoget diseases from rodent ticks, mites, and fleas.

Don't Attract Rodents

The best way to prevent a rodent infestation is toremove their sources of food, water, and shelter.

• Store pet andpeople food, bird and lawn/garden seed, and animal feed indoors incontainers with tight fitting lids.
• Clean up foodwaste and use thick plastic or metal garbage cans with tight lids.
• Keep the areaaround your home and outbuildings clear of junk and debris.
• Trimvegetation and don't allow plants to grow up alongside your house.
• Clean upfallen fruits or nuts from trees and animal waste.
• Routinely mixcompost piles to encourage rapid decomposition.
• Store firewood, lumber, or hay at least 12 inches off the ground and away from your home.

Seal Up Your Home

Seal all gaps and holes into your home oroutbuildings. Mice can squeeze through openings as small as a quarter of aninch. Fill small holes with steel wool and caulk. Use lath screen or metal,cement, hardware cloth, or metal sheeting to fix large holes. These materialsare available at hardware stores. The following areas should be inspected forgaps:

• Inside,under, and behind cabinets and appliances.
• Around doors,windows, and the foundation.
• Attic, crawlspace, dryer, and floor vents.
• Around pipesand holes for electrical, plumbing, cable, and gas lines.
• Crawl spaceentry points.
• Around thefireplace.
• Between theinside floor and wall juncture.
• Among roofrafters, gables, and eaves.

Trapping Rodents

Snap traps are an inexpensive and effective way tocontrol mice and rats. Rats can be very cautious and it may take several daysbefore they approach the traps. Mice are less cautious and you're likely tocatch one or more of them the first night you set the traps. Read theinstructions carefully before setting the snap trap and follow these tips:

• Place snaptraps in areas where rodent activity (droppings, nests, chewed materials)is occurring. Don't place the trap in an area where a pet or young childhas access.
• Prior tosetting the trap, add a small amount of peanut butter onto the bait pantrigger.
• After settingthe snap trap, carefully place the bait end of the trap along the wall soit forms a "T" with the wall.
• Dispose oftrapped rodents and wash your hands after handling the trap.

Snap traps are preferred over glue or live trapsbecause those traps keep the rodent alive, which allows them to continue tourinate and defecate. The urine and feces may contain germs which couldincrease your risk of being exposed to diseases. Poison baits can beproblematic because the rodent can die in a spot that can't be reached (insidea wall), causing a bad smell. Poison baits, if left in accessible areas, canalso be eaten by pets or attract the attention of young children. Electronicrodent traps, which deliver a high-voltage shock killing the rodent, are a goodalternative to the basic snap traps if you're willing to spend a little moremoney. For those unwilling to do their own rodent trapping or if the rodent infestationis severe, contact a professional pest control company.

Clean Up AfterRodents

Properly cleaning up rodent-contaminated areas canhelp prevent hantavirus pulmonary syndrome, a rare, but potentially fatalrespiratory disease that people can get after inhaling dust contaminated withrodent urine or droppings. Follow these tips to properly clean up arodent-contaminated area:

• Air outenclosed areas for at least 30 minutes by opening doors and windows. Leavethe enclosed area while it's being aired out.
• Don't vacuum,sweep, or stir up dust in and around rodent contaminated areas - this cancause contaminated dust particles to be inhaled.
• Spray and wetdown dead rodents, nests, droppings, urine, and other contaminatedmaterials with a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water) and letthis soak for 5 minutes. Other disinfectant products can be used - followthe label instructions for dilution and disinfection time.
• Wearingrubber gloves, wipe up the contaminated materials with paper towels, rags,or mops and place waste into a plastic bag and into the garbage.
• Beforeremoving gloves, wash or disinfect them.
• Wash handswith soap and warm water after removing gloves (or use alcohol-based handsanitizer if soap and water is not available).

Carpets, Furniture, Clothing, andNon-washables

Shampoo carpets, rugs, and upholstered furniturewith a commercial disinfectant or use a commercial-grade steam cleaner. Placecontaminated clothing, bedding, and stuffed animals into the washing machinewith hot water and detergent. Use the high heat setting on the dryer or hanglaundry to air dry in the sun. For items such as books or other non-washablesthat can't be cleaned with a liquid disinfectant or thrown away, leave themoutside in the sunlight for several hours or in an indoor area free of rodentsfor about a week. After that time, wipe the item down the best you can with amoistened cloth with disinfectant.

Heating and Cooling Ventilation AirDucts

When there is evidence that rodents have access toheating and cooling ventilation systems, it's best to contact a professionalpest control company to remove them. Companies specializing in duct cleaningare familiar with the particular problems and risks associated with rodentinfestations in ventilation systems.

Heavy Rodent Infestations

Special precautions should be used for cleaninghomes or buildings with heavy rodent infestations. Homeowners should considerhiring a professional company to clean up heavily contaminated areas.

People involved in cleaning up heavy rodentinfestations should wear the following protective equipment:

• Coveralls (disposable, if possible).
• Rubber boots or disposable shoe covers.
• Rubber gloves.
• Protective goggles.
• Appropriate respiratory protection device, such as a half-mask air-purifying (or negative-pressure) respirator with a high-efficiency particulate air(HEPA) filter or a powered air-purifying respirator (PAPR) with HEPA filters. Follow local and state requirements regarding pulmonary function and fit testing before beginning any work requiring the use of a respirator.
• Personal protective equipment should be decontaminated upon removal at the end ofthe day. Potentially infective waste material (including respirator filters) should be double bagged in plastic, labeled as infectious (if it is to be transported) and disposed of in accordance with local requirements for infectious waste.

Yellow Jacket, Wasp & Hornet

The term wasp is adescription of body type and not temperament. The vast majority of wasps arevery beneficial insects. For example there are wasps that are species specificparasites and predators of some very serious pests. 

Descriptionand Lifecycle:

Yellow jackets andbees share the same coloration but can be differentiated by the presence ofhair. Bees have hairy bodies and wasps are smooth and hairless. Hornet’s bodiesare primarily black with a yellow tail end. Many other insects have adopted theblack and yellow color scheme as protection from predators taking advantage of beesand wasps defensive reputations. Therefore, it is important to note that notall black and yellow insects sting. Yellow jacket and paper wasp nests can bedifferentiated by the outer structure of the nest. Paper wasp nests are notprotected by an outer paper cover, unlike yellow jacket nests which areenclosed by papery material. 

Yellow jacketslive a social hive situation similar to honey bees. There may be 5000 wasps pernest. The nests are paper and may be underground, in a tree or a buildingoverhang. 

There is anoverwintering queen, who, in the spring selects a nesting site. She constructsa small nest and lays a few eggs. The eggs hatch, go through a larval stage,mature and begin to tend the queen much in the same way as worker bees tendtheir queen. 

These"worker" wasps are female and the main source of concern: they arethe stingers. The worker wasps expand the nest and hunt other insects to feedthe developing larva and queen. The workers are known to steal small bits ofmeat from picnic tables. 

In the fall thequeen will leave the nest and search out an overwintering site, typically acrack in tree bark. The worker wasps also leave the nest, but they do not overwinter and eventually die. 

Control:

As wasps andhornets aggressively defend their nests, the safest method of destroying a nestis to wait until October, after the queen has left and the workers died. Simplydig up or knock down the nest and destroy it. 

During other timesof the year control can be obtained through a number of methods. A piece ofcooked meat soaked in an insecticide such as diazinon and hung in a tree (awayfrom children and pets) will be visited by the worker wasps. The wasps willcollect a piece of the poisoned meat and carry it back to the nest. Eventuallythe entire nest can be killed by this method. 

A similar methodthat does not use an insecticide is to suspend the cooked meat over a bucket ofwater and detergent. Wasps that visit the meat may fall in to the bucket ofwater and drowned. 

A more active attack on a wasp's nest should be undertaken at dusk, when the wasps are in the nest. There are specific aerosol wasp and hornet killers. The chemical ingredient has a rapid knock-down, which is a good thing considering the wasps aggressive defensive of the nest. 

It is important tonote that some people are very allergic to wasp stings. If someone is stung andhas a severe reaction, medical attention should be sought immediately. 

Other Pests or Not?

Dragon Fly: Both the adult and nymph form of this insect are active predators onmany insects, but are especially predacious on mosquitoes. The dragon flyspends much of its life cycle around or in water, which is also the breedingground for mosquitos. Many types of dragon flies are common to this area. Adultsize may range from 3.8 - 7.6 cm. in length, and color ranges from brown toblue.

Ladybug: Also called the "lady bird," this insect is more correctlycalled a "lady beetle." Many different types of lady beetles arefound in North America, and almost all are considered extremely valuablepredatory insects. As a whole they prey mainly on soft-bodied insects such asaphids, mealy bugs and scale insect, but they also feed on egg masses of manyother insects. The soft-bodied, unattractive, black-and-orange spotted larvae ofthis insect do not resemble the attractive hard-bodied-orange and black spottedparents, but the larvae are ferocious insects with an insatiable appetite foraphids. 

Green Lacewing: These beautiful and delicate insects have earned a common name of"aphid lions," because of their enormous appetite for aphids. Bothadult and larvae forms also feed on mealy bugs, other small larvae and eggs ofmany insects and mites. The brown lacewing is more common in the USA, where itis often called the "aphid wolf." Green lacewings are easilyrecognized by their large, delicate and usually transparent wings, with greenand black venation. The fierce-looking mouth parts of the lacewing larvae helpto reinforce its common name of aphid lion. Adult lacewings are approximately1-2 cm. long.

Blister Beetle: This insect can be both beneficial and harmful. The adult form of theNuttall blister beetle will consume foliage and flowers of plants in the legumefamily, and therefore can be quite destructive. However, the larvae form ofthis same insect will also consume large volumes of grasshopper egg masses. Theblister beetle is easily recognized by its dark, metallic green or purpleshell, giving it an iridescent sheen. These insects are seldom noticed exceptwhen the adults swarm in June. The adult form is approximately 2 cm. in length.If blister beetles are found feeding on desirable plants (caragana,honeysuckle, beans, peas), spray the plants with water to discourage theinsects. If this fails, resort to a pesticide to protect the plants. 

Allergic responses arelinked to our immune system - and specifically to antibodies - here we goagain, talking about antibodies, proteins produced by our immune system whichcirculate in our bloodstream and help to remove any substance (toxin) ororganism (virus, bacterium) which has invaded our body. In this particularinstance, we are going to talk about the immediate kind of allergic reactionthat we may experience and which involves a particular kind of antibody, namedIgE (immunoglobulin E). This class of antibody is one of the five differentclasses of antibody made by our immune system (IgM, IgG, IgD, IgA, and IgE).

Each antibody moleculeis capable of binding to a distinct three-dimensional molecular shape presenton substances such as proteins or complex sugars, whether or not the substanceis floating around freely, or whether the substance is an integral part of anorganism. Thus, whenever a substance or complete organism invades our body, theimmune system can respond to this intrusion by synthesis of antibodies. If wehappen to make IgE-class antibody against certain things, we can be in trouble(mild or severe). Here is why:

All antibody moleculesare shaped like the letter "Y." Each arm of the Y has a sitewhich can bind to a given molecular shape, and the bottom part (the leg of theY) can also serve to generate certain responses when something else binds toIT. The image shows one of the two binding sites of an antibody molecule (oneof the two arms of the Y, called Fab - fragment, antigen binding - theheavy-chain in blue, light-chain in green, wrapping around one another to formthe site, and a protein antigen in red being held within the site; the bottompart, the leg of the molecule, is not shown).

In the case of IgE, boththe top and bottom parts of the antibody molecule can lead to problems for us.The bottom part of the Y-shaped IgE molecule (called the Fc forfragment-crystallizing) can interact with and be bound by a cell receptor (aprotein in the membrane which can "grab" and "hold onto" aparticular thing) specific for this part of the IgE molecule (and nothingelse). The receptor is located in the membrane of cells named mast cells andbasophils. Mast cells are all over the place within our skin, and basophilscirculate within our bloodstream. As IgE circulates, it may come in contact withmast cells or basophils, and through interaction with the receptor canspecifically adhere to the membrane of these cells with the arms of the Ysticking out towards the surrounding environment, and the leg part of themolecule embedded within the membrane - would be analogous to you, standingwith your feet and ankles sunk into wet cement, and your arms raised above yourhead. Now, if the substance against which the IgE was originally made appearsand bumps into a mast cell or basophil within the skin or within thebloodstream respectively, the binding sites at the end of the arms of the IgEmolecule may bind and hold onto the substance. If there are two Y Y (IgEmolecules) next to one another in the membrane, and each of their"hands" simultaneously binds the substance (generates a cross-link),this interaction "wiggles" the membrane and triggers the mast cell orbasophil (as the case may be) to release all kinds of powerful substances.

One of the substancesreleased by the mast cell and/or basophil is called histamine. This chemicalcan interact with other cell receptors specific for histamine, and triggerthese cells to release other powerful substances as well. One of the thingsthat happens when histamine is released is that nearby tissue changes - the placeswhere red blood cells interact with tissue - called capillaries - increase involume (called vascular dilation). The result of this increase in volume meansthat more blood can get to the site (is the reason why the spot will be warmerand redder than surrounding skin). Also, the amount of secretions increase(lymph fluid) - is why the area swells (edema). This increase in blood-flow,and lymph-flow to the site, can cause a raising of the skin which may itch, andwhich becomes red (blood near the surface of the stretched, raised, tissue) -is the rash (erythema). Now you know why we take antihistamines to relievethese symptoms, and other chemicals to dry up our runny nose. The allergicreaction might be pretty mild - although the rash may itch like all get out -these substances must stimulate "itch" nerves... nahhh, just kidding- but - nerves are indeed stimulated in a certain way - helps let us know thatsomething is going on. All in all though, a mild reaction can simply be just abother, and not particularly threatening. On the other hand, if instead of theskin these very same reactions occur within the lungs or within thebloodstream, we can be in serious trouble.

When IgE sticking frommast cells in the lung tissue binds to an invading (inhaled) substance likepollen grains, all of those substances just mentioned are released. Theresultant increase in lymph-secretion in the lungs can cause the lungs to fillwith fluid. Now, I know that you know that liquids cannot be compressed -cannot be squeezed down into a smaller volume - no matter how much pressure youplace upon them - is why hydraulic fluid works - so, if the lungs fill withfluid, our muscles are not strong enough to squeeze our lungs properly, and weare then unable to breathe. Too, the allergic response chemicals can lead toswelling of the tissue - decreasing the diameter of our airway pipes (bronchialtubes). Also, the slow-reacting substance of anaphylaxis (SRA) causes thebreathing muscles to become constricted which squeezes the bronchial tubes(airways), making it yet more difficult to breathe. This condition would be anasthmatic condition - a scary, uncomfortable, and sometimes dangerouscondition. If the reactions occur within the bloodstream via IgE bound tobasophils, we can be in yet deeper trouble.

The chemicals releasedby the basophil will rapidly circulate all over the body - there will beblood-flow and lymph-flow increases all over the place. This rapid loss ofblood into tissues via the capillary beds will result in a rapid drop in bloodpressure. The brain will not receive proper oxygen flow; the heart will strainto function; the lungs will fill with fluid; the airways will become severelyrestricted - breathing muscles become severely constricted - these things togetherare called anaphylactic shock. If a person does not receive help, the personcan die. It is for this reason that a person allergic to bee/wasp venom can beat significant risk. If a bee or wasp stings a person, the venom enters thebloodstream directly, and circulates within minutes all over the body. Theallergic reactions also occur within minutes, and a person can be in seriousdifficulty in a very short time. It is for this reason that if you are about toreceive an injection of any kind from your health care provider, that you areasked if you are allergic to so-and-so. Examples are: receivinganesthetics of any kind (prior to dental work or surgery); receiving injectionsof or swallowing antibiotics (penicillin); receiving a flu shot (egg protein -the virus is grown in chicken eggs); receiving any vaccination. Sometimes aperson will not know whether or not they are allergic to something - it is forthis reason that after you receive a vaccination that you are asked to waitaround in the physician's office for a while - just in case. If you are at thedentist or are about to undergo surgery, you'll have to wait, anyway.....

How do we prevent thesereactions - or at least - how do we overcome an allergic reaction? The easiestway to prevent allergies is to avoid coming into contact with the substanceagainst which you are allergic (the allergen). In some instances, avoidingexposure is difficult. As it turns out, we have natural responses of our own,some pretty neat physiologic things that happen automatically - but sometimesour automatic responses are overwhelmed and we need outside assistance. Let'ssay that you are experiencing an asthma attack. You will begin to have troublebreathing - this result will frighten you - the fright you feel causes thebrain to send "fright-response" substances out and about, which bindto specific receptors for these things on the cells of the adrenal glandslocated on your kidneys. The adrenal gland cells in turn release the substanceadrenalin (epinephrine) which has several powerful effects. One importanteffect is to stimulate an enzyme to break down glycogen - a glucose-sugarstorage polymer in liver and muscles - into individual glucose molecules.

Theseglucose molecules are rapidly "burned" by cells and the energyreleased speeds-up all kinds of metabolic activity - including the destructionof already-released histamine and the other allergic-response substances - thisresponse is known as the fight and flight response - your muscles may evenquiver with all of the energy available - your strength will increase -sometimes astonishingly - allows you to run like heck to get away from danger.The heart will beat faster and stronger too. Also, adrenalin begins almostimmediately to reverse the effects of histamine, by causing basophils and mastcells to stop releasing this chemical. Consequently, the stopping of histaminerelease and the increased metabolic activity which destroys histamine quickerthan normal, both result in the lowering of the amount of histamine throughoutthe body. This lowering of the amounts of allergic-response chemicals, resultsin decreased tissue swelling, decreased fluid accumulation, etc - andblood-pressure rises, breathing returns to normal, and rashes and the likegradually go away. 

Now, sometimes there just isn't enough adrenalin produced intime to reverse the reactions quickly enough - in this instance one may needoutside assistance by receiving an injection of adrenalin along with othersubstances in liquid, tablet, or injection form which cause swelling to godown, lung-associated muscle constriction to ease, airways to open, and fluidaccumulation to stop. People who are severely allergic to bee/wasp venomusually carry around a little syringe filled with adrenalin when they are inthe woods, camping, or somewhere far from a medical facility or phone.

Why do we even make IgEin the first place if all we seem to get is trouble? Well, actually, we aren'tsure - but- there is pretty strong evidence that IgE is really good atprotecting us from parasitic infections. Those darn scallywag mast cells andbasophils, if connected to a parasite via the IgE bridges (become the"hands" of the basophil and mast cells) release a bunch of things -and 'though these things if released around and about within our body cause ustrouble, these same things are deadly to a parasite. So apparently likeeverything else in life, under some circumstances actions are helpful, andunder different circumstances these very same actions can get us into trouble.Apparently, the trick is to be able to recognize the circumstance!

Seal up holes inside and outside the home to prevent entry byrodents. 

Mice cansqueeze through a hole the size of a nickel, and rats can squeeze through ahole the size of a half dollar! Prevent rodents from entering the home bychecking inside and outside the house for gaps or holes.

Where to look for gaps or holes inside your home

· Inside, under, and behind kitchen cabinets, refrigerators andstoves.

· Inside closets near the floor corners.

· Around the fireplace.

· Around doors.

· Around the pipes under sinks and washing machines.

· Around the pipes going to hot water heaters and furnaces.

· Around floor vents and dryer vents.

· Inside the attic.

· In the basement or crawl space.

· In the basement and laundry room floor drains.

· Between the floor and wall juncture.

Where to look for gaps or holes outside your home:

· In the roof among the rafters, gables, and eaves.

· Around windows.

· Around doors.

· Around the foundation

· Attic vents and crawl space vents.

· Under doors.

· Around holes for electrical, plumbing, cable, and gas lines.

Fill smallholes with steel wool. Put caulk around the steel wool to keep it in place. Uselath screen or lath metal, cement, hardware cloth, or metal sheeting to fixlarge holes. These materials can be found at your local hardware store. Fixgaps in trailer skirtings and use flashing around the base of the house. If youdo not remember to seal up entry holes in your home, rodents will continue toget inside. Outbuildings and garages should also be sealed to prevent theentrance of rodents.